Tuscan Kale Saag

Today, I thought to myself earlier, I would very much like to run away. Just, you know, walk out the front door and keep going, ending up in Rajasthan or the English countryside or an ice cliff in Greenland. I don't care where, really, just as long as it's not here, I thought. I am done with here. I've had enough of here. Get me out of here.

***

I miss my girlfriends. I miss connecting with my ladies in real life. I miss maskless faces. I miss their company and their smiles and looking at their shiny jewelry and talking about their gorgeous hair. I miss admiring them and asking for advice and giving advice and the thrilling incredulity that sometimes comes with feeling deeply understood. Waiting for them at a restaurant, deciding on a second glass of wine, feeling them all squished into a booth beside me. Their smells, their presence, their them-ness. Our conversations, the big talks and the little ones. Their outfits and their bags and their wrinkles and their laughter and their advice and our shorthand. I miss the women in my life so much that I have an actual physical ache.

Zoom was fine for a month or two or three, but now I can't even face Zooming with my friends. It feels too painful. I want to reach out and touch them and I can't. When the pandemic started last year, my friend and neighbor Stephanie came by one day just to say hi, from a distance. I ran down the stairs to see her, ripped open the front door and, confronted with her in the flesh before me, just burst into tears. My tears surprised me perhaps even more than they surprised her. The fact that she was in front of me and I couldn't go near her and touch her, pull her in for a hug, just gutted me. Once we all adjusted to the new normal, I was able to cope with that distance. I made my peace with it, I thought. But this week, that part of me is just hanging out again, all weepy and exposed, like a raw blister.

I want to run away to a faraway land and I want my girlfriends to come with me and while we're gone our husbands will take care of our children and they'll be just fine and we'll be back in a few months when we feel better, promise. 

***

The children were home from mid-December to mid-February. When they returned to school and Kita, I breathed a sigh of relief. Normalcy for them and for us, time to work again, time to be something other than a mother 25 hours a day. But the situation in Germany, in case you haven't heard, is becoming grotesque. Vaccinations lag, there is no testing strategy, and cases are skyrocketing. My mother and mother-in-law are vaccinated now, thank goodness, because they help us a lot. But Max and I are resigned to the fact that we are months and months away from our vaccinations, while the mutations are wreaking havoc. Bruno is our weakest link, poor little guy. I keep sending him to Kita, because I have assignments and deadlines, and every day I cross my fingers and hold my breath and hope against hope that he doesn't come home and infect us.

Keep him home, I think. Protect yourself. You have work, sure, but benevolent neglect never hurt anyone. And then I remember the endless weeks of them at home, at each other's throats all the time, his regressions, his brother's obsessive tendencies and how I felt like I was drowning all the time. He's better off at Kita.

***

All the while, meals are still getting made, morning, noon and night. One funny thing: I am having a quiet love affair with walnuts. I'll tell you more about that another time. In the who-gives-a-shit department, I feed my children broth made from bouillon cubes multiple nights a week and everyone is happy. In the marriage department, sometimes I get so angry about cooking one more meal that I make lunch only for myself and my husband has to go fend for himself, which he does without complaint. I have come this far in our journey together that I can report on this without judgment for myself.

Sometimes I get angry.

Sometimes I need to disappear.

Sometimes I simply refuse to make one more meal.

Yesterday, I made the discovery of the most delicious saag recipe made with Tuscan kale and tomatoes. I got it from my bible, East by Meera Sodha. In the cookbook, the saag is cooked with browned cubes of paneer, but I just wanted a big comforting pile of vegetables, so I left the paneer out and served the saag with hot cooked rice. It was so punchy and flavorful and nourishing that it felt like…a burst of sunshine in my body. An enveloping hug from someone wiser than myself. An escape. It used up precisely one bunch of perfect Tuscan kale. I made it just for us for lunch and there were no turned up noses or whines for something else.

One small good thing for which I could be grateful.

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Meera Sodha's Tuscan Kale Saag
Adapted from East
Serves 2
Note: This recipe is easily doubled.
Print this recipe!

One bunch Tuscan kale (about 250 grams), ribs discarded, leaves roughly chopped
Rapeseed oil
1 onion, finely chopped
Thumb-sized knob of ginger, peeled and grated
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 green chile, optional, finely chopped
Half a can of chopped tomatoes or about 3 fresh tomatoes, chopped
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon brown rice syrup
Half a can of coconut milk

1. On a medium flame, heat 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a pan or pot with a lid and add the onions. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes over a medium flame,  until soft and sweet.

2. Add the ginger, garlic and chile, if using. Cook for a few minutes, then add the tomatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thick, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, salt and brown rice syrup and stir well.

3. Add the kale to the pan and stir to wilt. Add the coconut milk, stir, then cover. Cook over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes. If the saag seems dry, add a tablespoon or two of water. 

4. When the kale is tender, use an immersion blender to roughly blend the mixture. Serve as a side dish or with rice as a main course.

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58 responses to “Meera Sodha’s Tuscan Kale Saag”

  1. Frances Millerd Avatar
    Frances Millerd

    This is such a beautiful piece of writing. I’ve sent it off to some girlfriends who it made me long for. And I can totally relate to the need to inhale vegetables, like ingesting sunshine. I love that. Thank you.

    Like

  2. Sara Avatar
    Sara

    You are not alone. I recognized so much of this, I almost cried. Sending love, a mom of two in Northern Italy. Also, this recipe looks delicious.

    Like

  3. Caroline Avatar
    Caroline

    Thank you for so beautifully articulating how I feel, although my child is a teenager. I break down emotionally and get angry too. We’re lucky enough to stay safe from the virus as much as we can, but the anger and impatience surface occasionally. And the cooking, as much as I love it, gets annoying and overwhelming. I recently rediscovered your blog. Really appreciate the one pot, no exotic ingredient recipes you’ve been posting. Let’s hang in there!

    Like

  4. nicole Avatar
    nicole

    Thank you for putting into words the particular upset of this drawn out nightmare, especially here in Europe. Your recipes are a balm in this time.

    Like

  5. Verena Day Avatar
    Verena Day

    I really feel for you. I am a German in the UK and it makes me so sad how politicians treat their citizens. I talk to my family and they are all so incredibly down. It was all so predictable. And yet politicians behaved like they’re surprised by the force of the virus. A year on!
    It saddens me so much for all the non-Germans who are living there having to put up with that level of incompetence.
    My own silver lining is the hope for a real change this autumn. I’m taking courage from the success the Green party brought home. They will never win, of course, but I really hope Menschen like Annalena Baerbock and Robert Habeck will get more of a say (btw Zeit’s Alles Gesagt podcast has an episode that can give you an idea why I’m so full of hope).

    Like

  6. T. Avatar
    T.

    I needed to read this.
    I have been with my partner for 11 years now. I am unemployed yet work odd jobs or write all the time (the perks of wanting a career in academia; how stupid of me…). We have no kids, but I am fed up. With everything, including having to think about money and food and everything. The other day I snapped at him over making lunch: he had promised to make beans, but then changed his mind. It was a working Saturday for me, and I was depending on him to get that burden off my back – and when he happily informed me that he’ll do it tomorrow instead, I snapped. So hard that we avoided each other for the next two days, something we’d never done before.
    I cried reading this. Thank you for sharing so so much.
    Things will get better. ❤

    Like

  7. Heather Avatar

    Oh man, I do the same thing with lunch making and my husband and I feel like such a monster every time. Thank you for articulating this and making me feel less alone. ❤️

    Like

  8. Erica Avatar
    Erica

    Oh Luisa….know that way over here in Ohio another mom of two boys (almost the exact ages) is feeling precisely the same. It feels good not to be alone. Sending you strength, hugs, and weepy commiseration ❤️

    Like

  9. Ali Avatar
    Ali

    100% the same. Plus the anxiety and horror of living in the USA where the supposed right to possess firearms is greater than the right to buy milk without getting murdered, or you know, just be a person who isn’t white.

    Like

  10. Kate Avatar
    Kate

    Yes yes yes. Hitting the one year pandemic mark has been really rough this month. Thank you for helping the rest of us feel less alone with our feelings. ❤️ Love, a wife, mother, student, teacher, and very fed up home chef.

    Like

  11. Emily Avatar
    Emily

    This, exactly this. I sent this off to some girlfriends and we all read it and felt it in our bones. Thank you so much for writing it.

    Like

  12. Sweetea Avatar
    Sweetea

    Loved this, sent it to 2 of my beloved friends whom I long to hug and hold.
    Also, thank you for blogging. I removed myself from all social media and I missed your voice!

    Like

  13. Verena Avatar
    Verena

    Sending warm thoughts from Canada. All of this resonates. It is so relatable, and so exhausting xo

    Like

  14. Teegan Avatar
    Teegan

    I love the writing, but I also want you to know that I have bookmarked nearly everything you’ve posted since you came back. Such a perfect range of delicious, comforting foods! Thank you so much, from a tired-of-cooking-every-single-meal-forever-and-then-doing-the-mountain-of-dishes mother of two.

    Like

  15. Christine Avatar
    Christine

    Oh, this made me cry. I haven’t seen a friend other than my neighbors, who are lovely, and thank goodness for them (since my kids have invited themselves right into their house), in months and months and oh to share a meal with girlfriends in a restaurant. Oof. Soon, I hope. I’m glad your mother is vaccinated. Soon for us all… we need it.
    Six years ago, I saw you in an Italian restaurant in Berlin and I didn’t want to interrupt. I wish I had! Next time.

    Like

  16. becky Avatar
    becky

    Thanks so much for the words – so many of us feel like this right now. I haven’t seen my grandchild since September, except via Facetime (and thanks the goddesses for that – he’s 1-1/2 and we are missing out on soooo much – but we do have Facetime). And all my friends in California are getting their first shots at the weekend, while we’re sitting here in Northern DE with no Easter Fire, no friends, no church, no singing, no and and and. My father died of Corona last year and I still haven’t been brave/stupid/crazy enough to make the 12 hour flight back to the States for any sort of closure, and most likely won’t be able to until the fall (???) My normally full well of positivity is running perilously low. Even though I don’t know you, your thoughtful, open and honest writing makes it seem like I do, so I’m sending some of my last bits of happy your way. Stay strong, but crying (and ranting and screaming – do check out the website where you can scream into the Icelandic wilderness) are good too. All the best to you! Liebe Grüße aus Bremen

    Like

  17. Yvette Avatar
    Yvette

    Thanks for the nod to non-germans living here right now… it‘s seriously tough! We wanted to leave last year for non-corona reasons and we got grounded and have been really struggling to keep our spirits up all through this year. Thanks Louisa for the recipes and real talk. I miss that so much, sometimes I really believe i am the only one suffering this way. That’s the real kicker with corona. Being mostly alone with the experience amplifies everything.

    Like

  18. Amanda Avatar
    Amanda

    This really hit home. I’m so happy to see people at home in the US getting vaccinated and so frustrated with the staggeringly slow progress here in Switzerland. I know each person vaccinated is a step in the right direction but I just want to join the party and I want to feel safe being with our friends and I want to see our family again. Thank goodness for the sun today and barlauch (hoping to forage it for the first time this weekend) and each little agonizingly slow step closer to running away with the people we love.

    Like

  19. Yvette Avatar
    Yvette

    On another note i have discovered a reliable non-food/drink related pick me up: Jon Batiste just released a sublime new album We Are. Just saying. Whenever I’m ready for input again after a reeeaaallly bad day, this is where I start.

    Like

  20. Ingrid King Avatar

    You had me in tears after the first few sentences. I can hardly stand it anymore that I can only see my friends outside, and only at a distance. Things here in the US are better as far as vaccinations go, and my turn will hopefully come in the next month or so. My heart breaks for what you are going through in Germany right now.
    I know I’ll be sobbing the first time I can hug my friends again. And I’ll probably cry when I get that first shot, too.

    Like

  21. Jen Avatar
    Jen

    Last Saturday I ran away from home. I had had ENOUGH and I was DONE. I got in the car and drove aimlessly through all the neighboring towns and hills. I need you to understand that I was SO MAD – my children and husband’s offenses were, respectively, bickering and not wanting to buy a new mattress – and that was it. I was not coming back. I was over these people, and over my house, and over my life. (I would have brought the dog with me but I hadn’t thought of it in time before storming out. He was still acceptable.)
    About two hours into my drive, I was hungry. I realized I had forgotten my glasses and so once I took my contacts out I would be blind, thereby ruining my dreams of holing up in a mysterious roadside motel for the night. I had to use the restroom. And so – just like running away as a kid – I went home. I sheepishly grumped in through the back door and went straight to bed.
    I wish I could tell you that all the anger and frustrations were magically gone the next day. They weren’t. But I am telling you this to say: I hear you. I see you. I understand. Just keep doing the next thing, taking the next step. That’s all any of us can do. And maybe run away for a little while.

    Like

  22. Annette Avatar

    Oh man. I am really sorry it is hitting you so hard right now. I am trying to go the “one day at a time”, “one foot in front of the other”, “Jim Stockdale had it right” route, with varying success. But I do believe we will prevail in the end.
    Recipe: I love Meera Sodha too – I’ve been making her Caulflower Curry ever since it got written up in the NYT. But what is the German term for Tuscan kale? Wikipedia has Palmkohl and Schwarzkohl, and I have never seen either – is that what they sell in Berlin?

    Like

  23. Yvonne Avatar
    Yvonne

    I wish I had the bravery to do that, Jen. Instead I just store up all the rage and take it out – verbally, withholding sex – on my long-suffering husband. The children get off lightly. And I go to bed very late just so I have a few hours totally to myself, but then wake up tired and grumpy and make my husband’s day unpleasant. Objectively I am an adult, but really…?

    Like

  24. Joanne H Bruno Avatar

    Can I just say, your posts have been giving me so much happiness. Your words are exactly what mother (and humans) everywhere are feeling right now and it is comforting to know that others out there are having the exact same struggles! (Also, yes Meera Sodha is a goddess, so thanks for the reminder that I need to dive into East!! I just finished cooking my way through her Fresh India cookbook and it is magic.)

    Like

  25. Jen Avatar
    Jen

    It didn’t feel brave. It felt like I was throwing a temper tantrum, which I guess I was… I used to have such reserves of energy, of patience, of optimism. But after a year of this, I feel like my reserve wells are empty, and I’m flying by the seat of my pants, scrambling to get even the easy things done. I’m tired.

    Like

  26. SP Avatar
    SP

    Thank you for this post. I feel it with every ounce of my being. Two young boys home since March 2020. It’s brutal. The meals, the cooking, the entertaining kids. It’s too much. Hang in there, it’s all we can do ❤️

    Like

  27. Luisa Avatar
  28. Luisa Avatar

    I miss Italy so much. xo

    Like

  29. Luisa Avatar

    Yes ma’am! We’ve got this (mostly).

    Like

  30. Luisa Avatar
  31. Luisa Avatar

    Yes, loving it!

    Like

  32. Luisa Avatar

    Hugs to you.

    Like

  33. Luisa Avatar
  34. Luisa Avatar

    It’s so unbearable, on top of everything else…

    Like

  35. Luisa Avatar
  36. Luisa Avatar

    This made me happy.

    Like

  37. Luisa Avatar
  38. Luisa Avatar
  39. Luisa Avatar

    So glad to be of service! Truly.

    Like

  40. Luisa Avatar

    Oh, yes, next time, please!

    Like

  41. Luisa Avatar

    I am so, so sorry. Going to scream now, thank you for that tip!

    Like

  42. Luisa Avatar

    It’s just truly, objectively hard.

    Like

  43. Luisa Avatar

    Yes, I think so! Glad it’s your turn soon. xo

    Like

  44. Luisa Avatar

    Oh Jen, your comment. Thank you for sharing and making me feel less alone.

    Like

  45. Luisa Avatar

    I usually see it labeled as Schwarzkohl here.

    Like

  46. Luisa Avatar
  47. Luisa Avatar

    Brutal! Sending hugs.

    Like

  48. Ann Avatar
    Ann

    At my child’s last check-up, her doctor told us that he is in contact daily with the Gesundheitsamt in NRW where we live, and there has not been one single case in which a kid at Kita or Kindergarten has been infected and passed the virus to the parents. He said at that age the virus is in such a low density that it isn’t as contagious. Hopefully, that information will give you some peace of mind.

    Like

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