Peperonata

Rachel has a new column in the Guardian and if the first two are any indication, it is going to be a treasure trove for us home cooks. I read about her vinegar-spiked peperonata as soon as the link was up and was at the stove and cooking it not more than an hour later, if my memory serves correctly. Rachel has all kinds of nice suggestions for how to eat it (with a piece of frittata, for example, or dolloped next to boiled potatoes), but I was most taken with the thought of it on a sandwich. The day after I made it, since it gets better as it sits, I piled it onto a round of soft Turkish bread studded with sesame and nigella seeds, and added in a few pieces of feta here and there for good measure. Some sharp-tasting parsley leaves gave the sandwich a bit of pep and texture. Silky, salty, creamy, chewy – it was a very nice thing indeed.

The day after that, I steamed some cubed zucchini and mixed them with more peperonata, warmed up this time. Hey presto, we had our Sunday lunch pasta sauce. Predictably, Hugo turned his nose up at the cooked strips of peppers at first, but gobbled them up soon enough.

So often, my workday lunches at home are on the grim side: cold leftovers, because I'm too lazy (or busy) to heat them up, the long-lamented cheese sandwich, a plate of day-old rice with ketchup on top. (Proof.) But having a pot of peperonata to play with made me feel downright rich. Thanks, Rach.

Peperonata sandwich

Be forewarned: this is a messy sandwich. Two hands are needed to contain it as you eat and both will be dirty by the end of lunch. Still. Worth it.

Rachel Roddy's Peperonata
Serves 8

1kg red peppers
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and finely sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and pressed
Salt, to taste
450g peeled plum tomatoes
Red wine vinegar, to taste (optional)

1. Cut the peppers into strips, about 1cm wide and 6cm long, discarding the seeds, stalks and any pithy white bits.

2. In a heavy-based pan with a lid, warm the olive oil over a medium-low heat, then cook the onion and garlic until soft, translucent and fragrant (they should not brown), which usually takes about 10 minutes. Add the peppers and a pinch of salt, stir, then cover and cook for 15 minutes, stirring every now and then.

3. Add the tomatoes, stir and then leave, uncovered, at a lively simmer for 30-40 minutes. Stir occasionally, gently pressing the tomatoes against the side of the pan, so they break up.

4. The peperonata is ready when the peppers are soft and everything has come together into a thick stew. Taste, season generously, and add a dash of vinegar to sharpen things up.

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8 responses to “Rachel Roddy’s Peperonata”

  1. Victoria Carr Avatar

    Oh, Luisa, please don’t have bleak lunches. Even a soft-boiled egg and toast soldiers would not be bleak. But a soft-boiled egg, toast soldier’s, and Rach’s peperonata would be glorious.
    I have so many wonderful recipes that I have adopted from you and Molly and Rachel. My good friend Polly uses your mother’s meatball recipe exclusively; I eat your “secret” (since it was embedded with another recipe) pasta with tomato sauce and ricotta all the time. And those tomatoes stuffed with rice and served with potatoes, which each of you wrote about, make me long for August when winter seems to be stretching on to infinity. Etc., etc., etc.
    What would we do without you?

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  2. Luisa Avatar

    This makes me so happy! Where would I be without wonderful, loyal readers like you?! xo

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  3. rach Avatar

    I remember reading you as you cooked your way through many a wonderful column inspiring me/us all again and again, and now it is one of mine, which makes me so proud.

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  4. Kristine in Santa Barbara Avatar
    Kristine in Santa Barbara

    Ok I give up. Where and when does the knob of butter come into play? My peperonata is bubbling away on the stove and here I sit looking for the missing piece. I suppose butter is good at an stage. Off to the Guardian site to look at the original recipe. Regardless, the house smells fantastic and am looking forward to the many things I can do with this pan of stewed pepper. Thanks for the inspiration!

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  5. Luisa Avatar

    My bad – in the original, Rachel melts butter and oil together. I skipped the butter, took it out of the recipe steps, but forgot it in the ingredient list. Fixed now!

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  6. Musings on Dinner Avatar

    I had a look at Rachel’s column (I’ve read her blog off and on so was interested) and it’s corroborated my view that a Guardian column – on whatever subject, but including food – is such a poisoned chalice. Her recipes will reach a wider readership but the below the line comments are really full of bile. That, or extreme levels of pedantry about whether her recipes are authentic enough.
    But also a couple of nice ones 😉

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  7. Kristine in Santa Barbara Avatar
    Kristine in Santa Barbara

    No worries. I ended up adding at the end for flavor, along with the bit of vinegar. Definitely doesn’t need butter, but I like tomato based sauces with butter when I remember. Delicious stuff, that peperonata.

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