Hugo and teriyaki salmon

Helloooo, fellow cooking-for-small-children-ites! It's been a long, long, long, long time, hasn't it? I'm going to be that mother and place the blame for this unintended hiatus directly at my beloved child's feet. Those sweet little feet attached to the, er, obstinate son I seem to have birthed who sometime around 15 months decided that he wasn't going to eat anything but pasta, boiled rice and, maybe, on some days, yogurt anymore.

Those scrambled eggs he used to hoover up like a pro? NO. The bananas he used to eat, slice by slice? NO. The little cubes of cheddar cheese he used to delicately pluck from my fingers and then eat like a gourmand? NO. The bowls of blueberry oatmeal he used to down in an instant? NO. Steamed broccoli he used to gobble like it was going out of style? NO! Segments of sweet juicy clementines he used to eat like candy? NO NO AND NO.

And for good measure, to all of it: NO.

O-ho! I wept bitter tears over this turn of events (don't worry, it was mostly silently, in my head). I shook my fists and gnashed my teeth and mostly tried not to show it, but gaaaaah, was it ever frustrating. In retrospect, now that he's 20 months old, I think this was all part of the horrible, no-good 18-month growth spurt than in our case started a little on the early side. But of course while you are in the hell of a growth spurt it never occurs to you that one day it will end, and so instead silently you despair and beat your breast and resign yourself, in this case, to being the mother of a picky eater.

In the middle of this food strike, or whatever we're going to call it, I discovered a fishmonger at a market in my mother's neighborhood selling the loveliest, freshest wild salmon I've ever seen in Berlin. For several weekends in a row, we headed to that market just for the salmon and ate it in countless delicious ways, but Hugo always turned up his nose when we tried to give him some. Then one evening I found a nice, easy recipe at the Kitchn for teriyaki salmon, made some for Max and me with a pot of boiled peas for all of us and then, right in front of my eyes, the child downed an entire adult-sized portion of fish.

GO.

FIGURE.

Let me tell you, victory (and a nice piece of fish) never tasted quite so delicious.

Salmon marinating

So! If you would to replicate our roaring success of a dinner, find yourself some salmon and mirin and then gather up your soy sauce and some sugar (and, optionally, some oil). Mix together the soy sauce, mirin and sugar until the sugar has dissolved and then lay your pieces of salmon in the marinade. You can let this sit for up to an hour, but 30 minutes is okay, too. Then turn on your broiler, stick a heavy pan in the oven to heat up, slip the salmon pieces into the scorching hot pan and watch them closely under the broiler for a few minutes. Literally, no more than 1-2 minutes.

And that's it!

You take out your skillet (the oven will be smoking), flip the salmon and serve it – it'll be lacquered and scorchy and deeply delicious and if you are very lucky, your child might like it too.

(If not, there's more of it for you to eat. Think positive!)

Teriyaki salmon

To our deep relief, Hugo is no longer in that awful growth spurt and is back to liking oatmeal and cheese, at least, though he still finds green things, shall we say, difficult. (An avocado will enchant him until it disgusts him and so on.) And while if his daddy shares his banana with him, Hugo will insist on finishing it and then eating a second banana, if I attempt to give him even just a piece or two, Hugo will look at me like I'm mentally deficient and walk away scornfully.

I can take it, though. He's awfully cute.

Salmon Teriyaki
Makes 4 servings

1 pound salmon
1/2 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil (optional)

1. Cut the salmon into 4 portions. In a shallow container large enough to hold the salmon pieces, mix the soy sauce, mirin and sugar until the sugar dissolves. Coat both sides of the salmon with the mixture and arrange pieces skin side up in the container. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

2. Arrange your oven racks so that the skillet you will be cooking in is as close as possible to the broiler flame. Turn on the broiler. Preheat a cast iron or other ovenproof skillet over high heat on the stove until very hot. Remove the salmon from the marinade and brush both sides with the oil. (If your pan is well-seasoned, you can skip this step.) Place the salmon skin side up in the skillet and transfer the pan to the broiler. Cook for 1-2 minutes and check for doneness. If it isn't done, flip and cook for 1 minute more.

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35 responses to “Cooking for Hugo: Teriyaki Salmon”

  1. bellini Avatar

    When my daughter was young I would mask the flavour of salmon with soy sauce, but take heart, when she was 5 we went to a restaurant and she had a piece of salmon the size of her head and has never looked back.

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  2. Ed Tiesse Avatar
    Ed Tiesse

    As someone who trained chefs, I was distraught when our son acted as yours did. He was a very picky eater who would have subsisted on mac & cheese, and pasta with butter and parm well into his high school years. Then he discovered sushi and his palate expanded. He now lives in SE Asia and enjoys such dishes as fried frog’s skin, fermented horse milk and duck embryos, not to mention numerous insects. So take heart, this stage of Hugo’s eating will pass.

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  3. Giulia Avatar

    ha…my son (now 5) still refuses any vegetable or fruit, except for banana. I have a similar recipe I make with trout that my kids gobble up. Large trout filets in baking dish, skin down. Mix soy sauce, with a small splash of sesame oil, a splash of Worchester sauce and a good amount of honey. Salt and pepper fish, cover with well mixed sauce, let sit for a bit. Warm up broiler, put pan in oven and leave under broiler for 10-12 minutes depending on thickness of trout. The oven will smoke once your’e done and the fire alarm will go off every time, but that’s when I know it’s done 😉 Super yummy!

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  4. Sirena Avatar
    Sirena

    My husband and I are adventurous eaters and never went through the picky phase that seems to plague my american mom friends’ kids – but I can tell it’s on the horizon! At 11 months Enzo is already a difficult eater. I’m a member of a facebook moms group and when the moms post to vent or get new ideas to help with a fussy 2+ year old eater, they invariably write, “He used to eat everything! He was the best eater” etc… So i’m hoping this pickiness doesn’t mean much just like it doesn’t mean much if they eat a lot at 11 months 🙂
    I also remember reading something Gabrielle Hamilton wrote about her kids only eating pasta with butter – one of the best chefs in the world! I know it happens ALL over. NYT had a great piece on this recently.
    ALL that aside I will say, Luisa, I love your site but I particularly enjoy the cooking for Hugo entries since I have a little man here of my own. Who this morning actually ate two tangerine slices, baby oatmeal with almond milk, and some organic rice puffs 🙂 That’s sadly a huge victory around here 🙂 GOOD LUCK and please keep sharing recipes that work for little Hugo!

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  5. Missi Avatar
    Missi

    My son, who is 11, informed the other night that he doesn’t like green beans. I said, “Yes, you do. You eat them all the time. And they are fresh and perfectly cooked!!!” He replied, “I used to like them but I don’t any more.” He also used to love parmesan on his broccoli up until a few months ago. Not anymore. Now it has to be garlic powder and red pepper flakes. These kids of ours are fickle!So, I hate to say it, but you may dealing with this for awhile. Ha!
    I am new to your blog and it’s great! I also am really enjoying your book.

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  6. Lizy Tish Avatar

    I babysit for my 2 1/2 year old niece and nephew (twins) and they can be pretty picky. Maybe I will suggest this recipe to their mom!
    It looks delicious to me and I will certainly try it!

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  7. Katie Avatar
    Katie

    The grocery store in my Texas city, Central Market, used to sell teriyaki salmon in their chef’s prepared case but stopped for some reason. I’ve really missed that salmon until now — I can make my own — thanks! Now could you please post on sautéed baby bok choy — another of their items they don’t sell anymore 😦
    Someday soon Hugo will discover what a fabulous cook his Mommy is and never look back 🙂

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  8. rosita vargas Avatar

    Ohh un plato exquisito de lujo el pescado me encanta,a los niños hay que darles mucho pescado,abrazos y saludos.

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  9. Kristín Avatar
    Kristín

    WHERE IS THE FISHMONGER?! girl please!

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  10. Christine Avatar
    Christine

    This sounds excellent. I wonder if it is excellent enough to convince my husband of salmon’s merits. I mean, who doesn’t like salmon? (Him. Apparently. Although, he does eat just about literally everything else so I shouldn’t complain. OH except sausage. He doesn’t really like sausage. Thankfully our mutual love of mushrooms and vegetables can bridge all that separates us.)
    In case you have some lying around, I really really like to grate ginger into my teriaki. But then, I also have a deep love of ginger. Plus I feel like putting ginger (and garlic) into my dishes makes them that much healthier, even if they are swimming in sugar.
    Also, he may be picky all of sudden, but those cheeks! Adorable!

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  11. Luisa Avatar

    Ha! Sorry. It’s the bald man on Winterfeldplatz on Saturday mornings. He has his stand on the West side of the market – but there’s another fishmonger just a few stands down from him, don’t get confused! This guy is really, really nice and works alone. I don’t know if he has any wild salmon right now, but in November/December, it was fabulous. He’s also in Kreuzberg on Thursdays…but I can’t remember which market.

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  12. Claire Avatar
    Claire

    This recipe is very similar to the one I make for my toddler, except to the marinade I also added slices of ginger (grated, if you want the flavor to infuse a bit more, but the lazy mom that I am, I just have them sliced thin, slightly pounded). Another version is to add smashed garlic (bits of it taken out of the marinade before baking/grilling, otherwise will turn bitter). Thanks for the lovely post! I should really count my blessings here that fresh, wild salmon are easier to find than in Berlin.

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  13. Molly Avatar

    Oh, Luisa, I feel for you BEYOND WORDS. The early eating months are SO blissful, so tickled they are to actually put something in their mouths and GET TO KEEP IT THERE! I mean, really, what does it much matter if it’s a dust bunny or fromage blanc, an electrical wire or coq au vin, to their eager little mouths and minds?
    Then, they get opinions.
    Who allows these things?!
    But yes!!! to terriyaki salmon! I finally (belatedly! you are so far ahead!) struck on this method, and converted the second of my three to the pro-salmon camp. (The first was already a mad fan. The third, hopeless. I think I’m allowed to say that at 13, right? Still pretty much a plain pasta kinda guy. Sigh.) And! It is so fantastically good for ALL of us, which is, in my book, a win-win-win-win.
    Good for you for sticking with it. Don’t give up. Ebb and flow, ebb and flow.
    xoxo,
    Molly

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  14. Suzy Avatar

    Oh they are so annoying with their weird eating habits. Layla still only eats starch with sugar on it. And the twins. Well, they generally don’t like the same thing, so if one likes it, the other one won’t… a lot of people going to bed hungry in this house. : )

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  15. Suzy Avatar
    Suzy

    Will you make that for us?

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  16. Kylee Avatar
    Kylee

    I love these posts! I’m two months into introducing solids to my eight month old twins. So far so good, but oh, look what I have to look forward to! I remember once you posted a picture of the mess under Hugo’s highchair and at the time I thought, surely there’s a way to keep babies from doing that? HA! You should see my floor. I’m keeping this salmon as my secret weapon for when they start refusing to eat 🙂

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  17. MelissaM Avatar
    MelissaM

    I’m so happy to see another Feeding Hugo post! I always find them so helpful and a bit easing to my motherly worries. My son is in the middle of a food strike himself. He mostly only wants to eat snacks and breakfast. Fruit, meat and most carbs, no objections, but green stuff he won’t touch. At least that’s how it used to be, that list is now slowly dwindling down. Gah! I’m not sure I will have hair left by the time he starts he “normally” again.

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  18. Isabelle Avatar

    I feel your pain! It can be really difficult sometimes. My daughter is 21 months and generally eats pretty well, but after a few nights in a row of only eating a couple bites of dinner I get frustrated. Usually she rallies and eats a ton for a few days after that. Give and take I guess.

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  19. julia Avatar
    julia

    Dear Lucia, what a great post and the salmon sounds yummie! Will try it for sure!
    My little guy here (23 months) is on a returning food strike, since months. Which means, for 2 weeks he is refusing everything, even things he used to love (like PEAS, tortellini, bread, any kind, fruits, vegetables, potatoes, oatmeal, yoghurt), this is the phase of plain pasta with butter….
    and the next 2 weeks he is eating pretty much, also amount wise, scrambled eggs, boiled eggs, ragu bolognese, meatballs, lot of fruits, cheese and at least SOME vegetables. This can also change from day to day, one day he loves red paprika (raw) the next day he spits it out…..
    So it totally get you, i decided to stay relaxed about this and as long as they are healthy and growing..
    all the best from the neighborhood!
    Julia

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  20. Luisa Avatar

    Wow!! Taking heart indeed 🙂

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  21. Luisa Avatar

    That sounds so good and useful, because we get a lot of trout here! Thank you.

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  22. Luisa Avatar

    Thank you!!

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  23. Luisa Avatar

    Thanks, Missi!

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  24. Luisa Avatar

    Ooh, fingers crossed! 🙂

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  25. Luisa Avatar

    Twins!! You are my hero. And hee hee, your comment about the mess made me laugh. I was the same before Hugo! (And to be honest, the mess drives me NUTS but I try not to micromanage it.)

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  26. Luisa Avatar

    Oh, I’m so glad they’re helpful. Strength in numbers! 🙂 Food strikes are the pits.

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  27. Lacey Avatar

    this salmon is delicious! I don’t even like salmon but loved this. it was super easy to make on a weeknight. I served with cheese grits and roasted brussels sprouts.
    and, even bigger victory, my 13-month old gobbled it up.

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  28. Emily Avatar
    Emily

    Can’t wait to try this! I have 13 month old twin boys. One eats everything that’s put in front of him, but the other has distinct preferences. I’m convinced it doesn’t matter what you do, you just might get a picky eater at times! I mean, they’ve been given all the same foods since they were six months old, but one is picky and the other isn’t? Toddlers-not rational, are they?

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  29. Luisa Avatar

    Yes, I fully agree – both on picky eaters just happening by chance and on toddlers being, um, not rational. (I was going to say crazy!) 🙂

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  30. Thomas Marzahl Avatar
    Thomas Marzahl

    I am really happy to see this occasional series return. We have so far been blessed with one little guy who is approaching two and a half and isn’t really too picky. A few days here and a few days there, and he did draw the line at bamboo shoots the other day. Julian does have his moments… like when he refused carrots Vichy because they were orange, and, well, carrots. Until his mom turned the veggies into the wheels of a car which had to be eaten in fours, and he ate every one down to the last bite.
    Let’s see what 9-month-old Christoph does once he gets a bit more adventurous, but he sure loved the buttered salmon and grilled potatoes at the Salumeria da Nino yesterday. You could almost imagine him exclaim “about time someone got rid of that awful flavorless grub!”

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  31. Amy P Avatar
    Amy P

    I have an almost-three-year-old and an almost-one-year-old, and the phases still throw me for a loop. I always expect things to be linear (now that you’ve dropped that midnight feeding, we can start working on dropping the 3am one! WAIT, NOPE. It’s back….)
    The toddler still goes through phases of eating tons for a week and then eating very little for a week. I just keep offering food at the usual times (breakfast, am snack, lunch, pm snack, dinner) and if she doesn’t eat, she’ll be offered more in a couple hours. I know that sounds like a lot of meals to some people, but I’m hypoglycemic and it seems a little hypocritical to deny her food while I’m snacking! The Daniel Tiger episode about ‘trying new food because it might taste goo-ood’ has been excellent. If Daniel Tiger does it, she will too! Excellent show. It’s convinced her of so many things that I could not!

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  32. vicki abbott Avatar
    vicki abbott

    No wonder. There’s sugar in it.

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  33. Sirena Avatar
    Sirena

    Luisa, I made this for dinner tonight with ginger brown rice and snow peas for my now-almost-17-month-old boy, and it was a huge hit. After a week of being fussy at dinner, batting my hands away, struggling to feed himself even a tiny bit of yogurt (he’s too little), I remembered this recipe and tonight, we had a beautiful family dinner where this little boy kept “asking” for more salmon (making an “mmmmmm?” sound). It made me so happy! Thanks for the inspiration and helping me feed my little guy!

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  34. Luisa Avatar

    Thrilled to hear it!!

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