April Bloomfield's  Porridge

Oatmeal. No big deal, right? No big thing? Just slap some oats and water in a pan, let 'em come to a boil, maybe salt them, then you're done? Well, yes. And no. Let's start with the yes.

Oatmeal at its plainest is just fine. We eat a lot of oatmeal prepared like that in this house. Max stirs mashed banana and maple syrup into his, Hugo gets puréed fruit on top of his, I like to top mine with a little pat of butter and maple syrup. We'll cook up a big pot for the three of us (always using three times as much water as oats, plus a healthy pinch of salt), then each bowl is customized to the eater's liking. I never gave the preparation much thought, though I did notice that depending on the brand of rolled oats used, our oatmeal turned out slightly creamier or more watery. Those were never happy mornings. I mean, watery oats. No bueno. On to the no, then.

After I schlepped home my tin of McCann's, I was noodling around online doing something else entirely (if you must know, checking out who won Food52's Piglet Award) when I came across this post by Rifka about April Bloomfield's porridge. You know April Bloomfield, yes? The chef behind everything delicious at The Spotted Pig and The Breslin and The John Dory Oyster Bar, which I have not yet had the pleasure of visiting?

Well, Rifka had just made the porridge from April's first cookbook (the winner of the Piglet!) and was bandying words like "luxurious" and "perfect" and "brilliant" about. Plus, she said, April's porridge was so good you could serve it to company, at which point I practically levitated off my chair with glee. Oatmeal for company? Sign me up, right now. The next morning, I made April's porridge for breakfast and I'm afraid I'll never look at regular oatmeal the same way again.

There are several things about this porridge that set it apart. First, it uses both rolled oats and steel-cut oats. The rolled oats sort of melt into the mixture, lending a certain gelatinous heft. The steel-cut oats retain a faint bite after cooking, giving the porridge wonderful texture. Second, it uses both milk and water, which results in a porridge that is silky and creamy and almost pudding-like. Third of all, it uses an enormous amount of salt. So enormous that I couldn't bring myself to do it. (I do salt the food that Hugo eats within reason, since I'm eating it too, but this felt like too much for him.) So take it from Rifka that all that salt in the porridge really is delicious and take it from me that even without the hefty dose, this porridge is delicious. I mean, it's beyond. It is super-duper special. Each bite was a delight.

I mean, can you believe I've just written five paragraphs about porridge? It's that good.

Next time (tomorrow?), I'm going to play with the ratio of milk to water, trying a little less milk and a little more water. I'll keep you posted…

April Bloomfield's Porridge
From A Girl and Her Pig

Serves 2

1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 1/2 cups water
1 1/2 teaspoons Maldon or other flaky sea salt; if using fine salt, use less – start at 3/4 teaspoon and adjust as needed
1/2 cup steel-cut oats
1/2 cup rolled (not quick-cooking) oats
Toppings (additional milk, brown sugar, maple syrup, flax seed or fresh fruit)

1. Bring milk, water and salt to a simmer in a medium pot over high heat, keeping an eye on it so that it doesn't boil over. When the mixture starts to simmer, add both oats, stir to combine and reduce the heat to medium. Cook the oats at a steady simmer, adjusting the heat as necessary and stirring occasionally. At 20 minutes, the steel-cut oats will be just cooked and the rolled oats will have melted into the porridge.

2. Taste for salt, add more if needed, then divide into two bowls and add the toppings to taste. Eat immediately.

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68 responses to “April Bloomfield’s Porridge”

  1. Michelle Avatar

    Oh dear! I eat oats every morning it seems. Easy peasy. This sounds delightful and just up my ally. I can’t wait to try it in the morning!

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  2. Melissa Avatar

    Oh yes. Making this tomorrow. Adam at Amateur Gourmet mentioned these the other day, and I’m so pleased to have the recipe now! I could eat porridge every day of my life from now to kingdom come, and that was BEFORE I tried these. Thanks!

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  3. Katie Avatar

    That does look like a very fine bowl of porridge, indeed.
    I keep a tin of McCann’s around for those nights when I realize at 11 pm that there’s neither a crumb of bread left nor milk for cereal for tomorrow’s breakfast. If I soak the oats overnight, I can still manage to put some breakfast on the table in good time (mornings are rushed around here). So I think this porridge will have to wait to the weekend. But I’m excited! About porridge!

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  4. Bobbie Avatar
    Bobbie

    This should have extra special appeal tomorrow morning, if the predicted snowstorm materializes. (Yes, again!)

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  5. Anna Avatar
    Anna

    Do you think this could be made with soy milk instead of whole?

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  6. Victoria Avatar

    I’m trying this tomorrow since it is actually SNOWING in NYC.
    I like my porridge with butter, brown sugar, and a little heavy cream.
    Who wouldn’t?

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  7. Hilda Avatar
    Hilda

    “Gelatinous heft” sounds deliciously delicious! I saw something once at the Reformhaus that seemed to resemble steel-cut oats. Will have to try them and report back!

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  8. Tram_cat Avatar
    Tram_cat

    That’s hard! I’m eating totally plain porridge at the moment – yuk! Maybe this tasty looking recipe will make plain porridge more fun while dreaming about brown sugar, honey, maple syrup!

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  9. erica Avatar
    erica

    This is how my dad makes porridge. The half half has good texture with good cohesiveness. Back when we were little and my parents were living on a very tight budget my dad – being a compulsive researcher- researched the best nutrition for money breakfast foods and porridge was far out in the front. He still makes it with a dash of salt even though only adults eat it now. I really don’t think you need more than you’re used to. Also a likely hangover from budget conscious days he makes it with water and it’s then topped with milk and brown sugar (carefully prevented from mixing by judicious eating). The richness of water, skim or whole milk is definitely a matter of preference. To me whole milk porridge is for early morning farmwork or something out in the cold. Its neat to see you eat porridge! I’ve always felt like a bit of an oddity.
    On the subject of boiled grains have you tried black rice cooked in coconut milk? That’s a delicious dessert!

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  10. Amanda Avatar

    Ok, ok. I trust you. A post on porridge from the woman who led me to plum butter, jam-filled doughnuts, and–totally unrelated–cold tomato soup. This must be something. I’m on it. I even have both kinds of oats.

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  11. Abby Avatar

    Ooh, steel-cut and rolled oats? That just might solve my problems! I love the heft of steel-cut but not the nubbiness, and rolled oats can sometimes be too watery. (I agree, it’s the worst.) Right now I’m working through a pumpkin oatmeal phase…I’ll definitely try this!

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  12. Mari @ Oh, Sweet & Savory Avatar

    I love that you devoted an entire post to porridge! It’s a humble breakfast dish that is well-deserving of the spotlight! I can’t wait to try the recipe.

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  13. dwgsp Avatar
    dwgsp

    I usually make my porridge overnight in a slow cooker / crock pot. Do you think that this recipe would easily adapt to that method?

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  14. Angie Avatar
    Angie

    Come on, no Ziploc bags in Berlin? I don’t know how you do it.

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  15. Molly Avatar

    really? REALLY? five porridge paragraphs? oh, swoon. i already love me a good bowl of porridge (and i already SAW this in the book, and paged right on by), but your description of the two oats co-mingling, oh, dear. i think we may have oats for supper, tomorrow evening…
    and really, i’m not sure i can imagine a better supper.
    sigh.
    thanks, luisa! and welcome home.
    xo,
    molly

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  16. Sarah G. Avatar
    Sarah G.

    YES, please! Thank you so much for this post. I hope you’ll continue to update us with any variations you find that work for you and Hugo. I make a big pot of oatmeal every. single. day. for my tiny ones and myself. Unfortunately, I already set up tomorrow’s pot with some water and lemon juice to soak overnight. So I have to wait nearly 36 hours to try this. Counting down…. Thank you.

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  17. Roz Avatar
    Roz

    Oats every morning, everyday! This is for over night porridge. I use whole oat groats and steel cut oats…a bit more bite. Take an enameled pot and add 1 c whole oat groats and 1/3 to 1/2 c steel cut oats and 5-6 c water. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat to a bare simmer (I use a flame tamer) and set the timer for 30 min. Let it sit out on the stove top over night. The next morning you have many servings of oats. We put our individual serving in a bowl with whatever condiments we want, some non-dairy milk, spices, salt, greens…whatever and heat in the microwave. If you don’t have a microwave, reheat in a pan. I then have porridge for a few days. This way the porridge is made and I don’t have to wait in the morning.

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  18. Martina Avatar

    I have always been wondering what the German equivalent is to the oats (especially the steel-cut oats) typically used in porridge. Is it perhaps the “Großblatt” for steel-cut and “Feinblatt” for regular oats?

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  19. Luisa Avatar

    No, Feinblatt are like quick-cooking oats, they almost dissolve in the water. Grossblatt are regular rolled oats – they take a while to cook. I’ve never seen steel-cut oats in Germany before, though the comment from Hilda above is promising!

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  20. Luisa Avatar

    No, not again! (Here, too. Sigh.)

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  21. Luisa Avatar

    No idea! Try it and let us know!

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  22. Luisa Avatar

    Yum. Stay warm!

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  23. Luisa Avatar

    Ooooh, am intrigued – please let me know!

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  24. Luisa Avatar

    I have no idea! If you try it out, let me know!

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  25. Luisa Avatar

    Well, there are ziptop baggies, but they are inferior to the mighty Zip Loc. So inferior, I don’t buy them at all anymore.

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  26. Luisa Avatar

    thank you!x

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  27. sonya Avatar

    what is that brown liquid surrounding your oats? is that syrup?
    great-looking recipe – I’ve been doing a mix of oats and wheatberries and bulgur wheat/barley, which gives you the same delicious nubbiness in a smooth syrup, and mixing grains ups the health quotient even more!

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  28. sonya Avatar

    smooth porridge* – that’s what comes from not reading before posting!

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  29. Frau Neudecker Avatar

    Way too much salt! Tried them this morning with 1 c rolled oats (haven’t found steel-cuts in Paris yet), 1 c water and 1 c milk. Added 1 teaspoon of coarse sea salt and had to throw it out. Beurk, as they say in France.

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  30. Luisa Avatar

    maple syrup!

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  31. Luisa Avatar

    I think that coarse salt is far heavier than Maldon flaky salt – perhaps a teaspoon was just too much? Also, you used a cup less liquid than the recipe calls for. I used only a few pinches of regular salt in my porridge, as I mentioned in the post. I’m sorry you had to throw it out.

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  32. Frau Neudecker Avatar

    I know I used less liquid. But part of the liquid cooks off, the rest goes into the oats, so I’m not sure if more liquid would have changed so much. But maybe you are right, and the coarse salt was the problem.
    Nevertheless – I can hardly image even more salt (as mentioned in the recipe), even with more liquid. Next time: back to pinches.

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  33. mehrunnisa Avatar

    luisa, i can vouch for the fact that salt in porridge tastes excellent! i haven’t tried this recipe but i make mine with rolled oats, half milk and half water. when they are more or less tender i introduce some miso. and since it is breakfast i like a little sweet in the form of maple syrup and a scattering of black sesame! it’s delicious. whoever knew that porridge could be so good right?

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  34. Magdalen@FromHeartToTable Avatar

    I’ve got to try this out as soon as I get some steel-cut oats! I have some form of oats for breakfast almost every morning, whether it’s oat flour pancakes or oatmeal with different toppings.

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  35. Laurn Avatar
    Laurn

    I love eating oatmeal for breakfast — I usually add a little ground cardamom, cinnamon, one or two chopped walnuts, fruit, fat free milk and sometimes vanilla — delicious and healthy!

    Like

  36. Katerina Avatar
    Katerina

    Dear Luisa,
    I am a huge oatmeal fan, as are my babies, and if I can find steel-cut oats here in Greece I am making this porridge asap!! I have a question, though (this is not a judgement!!! just curious!!) – my baby is a few weeks younger than Hugo and I’m a bit worried about giving him cow’s milk (we’re still nursing) – did Hugo have any reaction to the milk in the porridge?
    thanks a lot,
    Katerina

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  37. Luisa Avatar

    I’ve been putting a dash of milk in Hugo’s scrambled eggs since he was…7 months? I think? No adverse effects. As far as I understand (and I have done about seventy million hours of research on this, gaaaah), cow’s milk is definitely no good for babies under one if it’s all they’re drinking. As in, if you replaced every single nursing or bottle session with a bottle of cow’s milk. That can lead to anemia and other serious medical issues. But here and there a little bit, if they are getting most of their milk needs from breast milk or formula, isn’t a problem. The concern about allergies is – again, I think – only if food allergies run in your family. I watched Hugo carefully the first few times he ate those scrambled eggs, but there was never an issue. Totally incidentally, my best friend’s son self-weaned abruptly at 9.5 months due to a medical situation she was in and her pediatrician in NYC told her to just transition straight to cow’s milk. He’s three now and healthy and happy (always has been!). So I think that cow’s milk isn’t necessarily the boogie man it’s often made out to be for babies.

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  38. Kim @ Cook with 2 Chicks Avatar

    I love just plain old oatmeal. Your version sounds way better. Can’t wait to try.

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  39. Janel Gradowski Avatar

    I have been eating oatmeal almost every day for breakfast for the last few weeks. The saltiness of this has me intrigued. I have to try it tomorrow morning with my usual pat of butter and brown sugar.

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  40. Trushna Avatar
    Trushna

    I’ve been making oatmeal with milk and water for as long as I can remember – in fact, think I grew up eating it made that way. Also, salty oatmeal was all we ever ate and all I knew until I came to the US and saw people adding syrup and sugar to their bowls! I might try adding a teeny spoon of honey/syrup now and then for variety, but most times I just prefer the plain salty version with a pat of butter. To each her own, eh?

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  41. E Avatar

    Try soaking overnight in coconut water – not the milk, but the water. Used to eat it that way all the time, salted, with maple syrup or brown sugar.

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  42. Luisa Avatar

    Found them today!! Hafergrütze at the Reformhaus. Yay! Thanks for the tip.

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  43. Luisa Avatar

    Hafergrütze = steel-cut oats! Just found a package at the Reformhaus today.

    Like

  44. Vidya Avatar
    Vidya

    Mixing grains is definitely the way to go. I mix rolled oats in with my quinoa porridge, which makes it delightfully creamy. I also cook it in a mixture of milk and water blend the whole lot until it’s smooth but still textured. It’s like eating pudding for breakfast.

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  45. Suzy Avatar

    I always make my porridge with both water and milk. And yes, salt. Stephen taught me that.

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  46. Lydia Avatar

    The texture is spot on! I love that I now have a good recipe for the steel cut oats I bought by accident (the 40 minute cooking time on the package just does not work for me most days). However, I have fine grain sea salt and used a heaping 1/2 tsp – it was far, far too salty. It was edible, but next time I will do this with my regular dash of salt.
    Also, I used almond milk instead of whole. Worked great! Thanks so much for this recipe.

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  47. Karen Avatar
    Karen

    I always make my oatmeal with water and a splash of soy milk and it turns out great (better than traditional oatmeal in my opinion, but then I don’t like cow’s milk).

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  48. Karen Avatar
    Karen

    I second the quinoa porridge (made with quinoa flakes). A recent and very happy discovery! I mix mine with oatbran and a mix of other flaked cereals (of which one is oats). The oatbran adds extra creaminess and you almost don’t need any milk at all.

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  49. courtney Avatar
    courtney

    I usually eat oatmeal every morning in the winter for breakfast…for some reason i’ve gotten off that kick. thank you for inspiring me to make it again…it was delicious and even better my suddenly picky 1 year old ate it this morning too!

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  50. Kathy Avatar
    Kathy

    This is the first time that I have read this blog that was recommended to me by the blogger’s father tonight at dinner in Pasadena, California with his wife and other friends. We saw some nice photos of Hugo with those big blue eyes. It’s funny because the subject of oatmeal came up in the course of the evening when I complained that my day had not started well because my Quaker rolled oats had boiled over in the microwave. Maybe, I should try this stove top preparation without so much salt.

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