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I got off the airplane at JFK last week and the first thing I noticed was that warm, breezy air wafting around me, tinged slightly with the scent of jet fuel, but warm and welcoming all the same. Hello, New York.

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This old view, from a highway in Queens, used to make me gape every time I came around the bend. Well, it still does. Doesn't matter that I don't live there anymore. New York rising up from the ground like a mirage, steel and glass shimmering in the afternoon sun, it's enough to make you cry. Or laugh. In all of its improbable, breathtaking beauty.

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From the cold, hard edges of buildings.

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To the soft, pink petals of the blossoming trees.

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New York is for cheese-makers.

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New York is for dreamers.

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New York is for patriots and for visitors.

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New York has lots of hidden messages in its nooks and crannies and crevices, waiting to make you smile.

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The breadth of its sky is unparalleled. It feels different than anywhere else: huge and unlimited.

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I didn't pay much attention to food this week; I was distracted by all the people, the streets, the smells, and, of course, my friends. Still, this lobster roll stood out: pure, unadulterated deliciousness. Better than anything I'd ever eaten in Maine. Isn't that just like New York? Always doing it a little bit better?

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The first few days back in New York were hard. I had tears in my eyes on every street corner. Felt like I was in a glass box watching my old city, my old life, pass me by. I saw everything I'd given up right in front me, literally close enough to touch. The energy and exhilaration of just being in New York; well, I'd missed both. So much.

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Yet, as the days passed, and the rawness subsided, I started to feel more peaceful. Look at this city! I thought. I was so lucky. I am so lucky. I got to live here. This was my home. And in a way, it still is.

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I think, later, when this year has passed and I can look back with some measure of perspective and distance, this trip will stand out as something important. Not just a quick vacation to see friends, but some kind of turning point, a moment in time in which everything started to fall into place.

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It was also immeasurably inspiring. I don't know yet how to write about this without dissolving into a puddle, but my friends in New York, well, they really inspire me. They make me proud to know them. Kind, funny, interesting, smart: they made me want to do better, write more, laugh louder. I wish I could have told them all in person just how much they mean to me, but this blog will have to do.

The world. Is what they mean to me.

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So, taking leave was hard. Of course it was. I buried my head into my book on the way to the airport and refused to look out the window. I didn't want to see those train tracks passing by, the gleam of yellow cabs, the sheen and shine of the city as my train pulled away, pulled me away.

But, the thing is, I got to come back to this. A pink sky, an apartment to fill with memories, the smell of lilacs and earth in the street, rain drops on the roof last night. Leaving New York is never easy, as REM once sang. But coming home to Berlin just is.

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61 responses to “A Helluva Town”

  1. Luisa Avatar

    Thank you, all, for your incredible comments. Don’t really know how to convey how much your reading, your comments, your sympathy/empathy means to me. A lot!
    Debjani – that place has been on my list to try for months. Thanks for the nudge!
    Uncle Bob – thanks for your patience! 🙂
    Petra – that’s a beautiful quote and so, so true. I only really started to understand the sentiment behind it last year.
    Kitchen Witch and Laura – I linked to the restaurant: it’s called Luke’s Lobster and it’s in the East Village. Very casual paper-plate kind of place, but SO GOOD.
    David – HAR. 🙂
    Gemma – yes, ma’am. 🙂
    Sonia – thank you!
    Alina – Thanks: a Nikon D80 with a 50 mm fixed lens.
    Without A Microwave – that made me giggle, thank you.
    Monica – the book’s not going to be illustrated. But don’t worry, I’ll still post lots of photos here. 🙂

    Like

  2. C. Lynn Avatar

    Oh wow. I’ve just moved away from my dear New York to the west coast with my fiance and this post really makes my heart ache for my town. The good thing is that New York will always be there Luisa, no matter where your life takes you.

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  3. brooklynite Avatar

    I have this post bookmarked. As a New Yorker, this well encapuslated why I love it here. Thanks for a beautiful post!

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  4. Tea Avatar

    Oh my dear, you’re making me cry—because I know how you feel. Different coast, same emotions. Sending you the biggest hugs.
    Did I tell you about the card I saw once in a store in Seattle, when I was struggling with my here-or-there dilemma? It said: Bloom Where You’re Planted. Not bad advice, eh? I try to remember.
    xox

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  5. Fie Avatar
    Fie

    You touch me to tears with your writing, Luisa. Beautiful post. I’m looking even more forward now to visiting New York for the first time this August. Thank you!

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  6. emiglia Avatar

    Luisa,
    I know exactly how you feel–the same thing is happening to me right now as I visit the city I gave up: Paris. Funny that the city you lost is the one I moved to. Your pictures are absolutely gorgeous… so happy you had a good time!

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  7. Crystal Avatar

    Luisa,
    Thank you for sharing your intimate thoughts and feelings on your trip with us. I know we’ve never met, but your journey helps me with mine. I find so many parallels in our lives and that is comforting.
    The same week you were in New York, I took a vacation back to Italy. The place where my love affair exists. The place that brings me to tears on every corner. The life I had there, the loss, the love, the loss of love, is still something I am grieving. I’m not sure I was ready to be back, my heart almost couldn’t take the smells, the sounds, the people, the memories. I wore my sunglasses on a dark, cloudy day just to hide my sobs as I walked around the city. But like you said, looking back, the importance of the trip will be clear to me.
    A four year relationship with a love of my life ended about the same time you and yours parted ways. I’m on my own now, trying to become whole again, learning how to be happy and grateful and at peace with where I’m at. And jumping into a new endeavor and dream! It may sound silly, but knowing that you’re doing it along side me, and also making your way through it, somehow sustains me and makes me feel less alone and scared in this world. So thank you for that.

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  8. Mrigaa Avatar

    Hi Luisa,
    I’ve been reading your blog for six months now. I first discovered it at my desk job, in Bangkok, after I had to leave my life in New York City and move home. I’m crazy about your food posts and photos and writing, but your New York posts really resonate with me (make me weepy) and sort of give me strength. In fact, they partially inspired me to start my own blog.
    That’s all. I’m a fan! Carry on.
    Mrigaa

    Like

  9. Piapie Avatar
    Piapie

    I went through the same turning point recently, only on the other coast. For a moment I felt such longing to return, not only to the place but to that time in my life. And then I felt such gratitude, knowing that I had the incredible good fortune to have spent a decade living across the Bay from San Francisco. Not many people get to live in such a beautiful, inspiring, magical place. Glad to see that you were so blessed.

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  10. Prairynation.wordpress.com Avatar

    All I can say is: Keep writing! Thank you for such a thoughtful and quiet post. This is why I continually come back to the Wednesday Chef. You are beautiful.

    Like

  11. Clara Avatar
    Clara

    Dear Luisa,
    I have only recently discovered your post while browsing for cooking inspiration. I moved back to Europe in the fall, after 4 years living in New York. I also battled through that first visit to New York after New York, the crying at first, the feeling of having never left, and finally saying a proper goodbye and bringing closure. A moving, beautiful account, thank you, may this city always be our Wonderland!

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