In a few weeks, I’ll be flying to New Orleans for IACP. I don’t have much time while there to explore, but something tells me that a few of you might have strong opinions about where to go and what to do while in New Orleans, even with limited time. Hmm?
Go on, tell me. Hole-in-the-wall places are my favorite, but I’ll take whatever advice you throw at me.
I’m sure Chowhound subscribers could also give you some ideas if interested.
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Re: New Orleans
Marigny Brasserie in the Marigny is good. I read about it when visiting NOLA for ALA and so we went there. It’s not far from a streetcar stop, which was a plus in the June heat. It’s not super expensive, but it’s not cheap either. I liked it a lot; the service was friendly and the food was great. It was very noisy, though. There’s supposed to be clubbing places around Frenchmen if you want to go out afterwards. They do brunch.
Marigny Brasserie. Marigny: 640 Frenchmen. 945-4472
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I’ll be going again too – maybe we can PURPOSELY meet up this time. 🙂
Dying to try Cochon, but have already resigned myself to no availability.
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We just went for our anniv. and ate some great food. We loved Commander’s Palace- it is such a tourist place but it is really amazing. For a dive with locals, one of the greats is Jac Imo’s cafe
http://www.jacquesimoscafe.com/
We had fresh watermelon mojitos and alligator sausage cheesecake to start and then all kinds of good fried chicken and cajun goodness. It is small and lively and has tons of real New Orleaners!
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Definitely, unequivically Cochon. Email me if you find you can’t get reservations. Or: Dick and Jenny’s. There is also a great neighborhood place at 3001 Magazine, Joey K’s. Best po-boys and catfish ever.
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Parasol’s, at the corner of Constance and Third, has the best, pure-est roast beef po-boy ever. It’s downright transformative. Don’t let the Irish sports bar thing throw you (and by no means should you visit the establishment’s truly appalling website): it’s a dive, sure, but a really, really good one. You just can’t do much better in New Orleans than sitting at the bar with an ice-cold beer and one of those almost mousse-like po-boys in front of you (sounds weird, but trust me).
Well, I guess you could go to Cochon…If you do, please tell us all about it! (I’ve never been there, but it sounds amazing.)
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You must go to Petunia’s. They have the best food and are known for their crepes. They only make a certain number, so make sure to get there early if you are going on a weekend. The bananas foster crepes and the ones filled with crawfish etouffe are amazing! This is a local place and is in the french quarter.
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my favorite restaurant here is jacque-imos. love, love, love it. mmmm! also clancy’s is quite good. a bit fancier, but still v local.
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This is such a tourist thing, but it really is a must – Cafe Du Monde for beignets, which are DELICIOUS.
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My parents lived in N’Awlins for 10yrs, so trust me when I tell you, the cafe au lait is much better in the suburb called Metairie (pronounced Metry) at Morning Call than at Cafe du Monde. Metairie’s not far away, and Morning Call’s open 24/7.
Also in Metairie, the absolute BEST po’boys (because the bread is crusty perfection) are to be had at R&O’s on the levee – that’s the levee on Lake Ponchatrain, not the river. And don’t order roast beef as one commentor advised – po’boys should be filled with fried oysters or shrimp! And “dressed” (lettuce, tomatoes, etc). New Orleanians also have this french fry po’boy thing happening, but let’s not go there. For an appetizer, you just have to order their authentic, scrumptious Crawfish Pie – I can taste it now. They also have the best bread pudding – another New Orleans fave. The place is always packed with locals. You’ll be stuffed, so take a walk on the levee, then perk up with a stop by Morning Call on the way back to the Quarters.
Nearby there’s also Deannie’s – more fried seafood – but you must at least stop by to purchase a container of tartar sauce. No, I’m not kidding. If they’d let us, we’d have gone there and just eaten tartar sauce on crackers for dinner, it’s that good. (Figuring out how to keep it chilled and get it home may not be an issue!) If you can get them to share their recipe, PLEASE EMAIL ME! I’ve gone 50miles out of my way just to buy tartar sauce for my mom there. Believe it or not, she used part of it to dress boiled potatoes, and the only way I could get my son to stop eating them was to put him to bed.
Mainly as historical interest: The Marina Grill, also in Metairie, is where the original (and by far the best) onion mum (blooming onion & other names) was actually invented. It’s heavenly there, but I’ve never been a fan of it elsewhere – it’s always heavy-battered and salty. Not so at the Marina Grill – the sauce is perfect and apparently un-duplicateable, and the batter lighter, crisper, less greasy than anywhere else. Enough of the fried stuff, and enough of Metairie.
Other traditional LA fare that you must try while you’re there: Gumbo, Jambalaya, and a Muffaletta – basically an olive salad or tapenade sandwich. You’ll have to ask locals where the best is to be had these days. As a foodie, I think that before you get into the alligator cheesecake and other new twists, you should experience the roots of Cajun & Creole cooking. Oh, Ralph & Cackoo’s has good turtle soup, if you dare. And btw, don’t think that Cajun cooking is anything like what you may have tried in other cities, or that blackened steak or fish tastes in NOLA like it does in NYC. For some reason, the spice blends used, especially in franchises, are just awful and nothing like real Louisiana cooking.
If you love raw oysters, it’s loads of fun to take one night and do an oyster tour – go from bar to bar and order a dozen topless to share at each one. Let me tell you, there’s nothing like oysters in the south, especially Apalachicola Bay oysters. Don’t worry if you don’t do raw – they’ll have Oysters Florentine, Oysters Bienville, oysters more ways than you can imagine. Of course, the last time I did that, the oysters were $1/dozen!
Wknd brunch at The Court of Two Sisters is a must, simply a must. It’s been around a long time – long enough that my grandparents went there about 50yrs ago. Sit outside in the cool, shady brick courtyard and enjoy the live soft jazz. It’s comfortable and elegant at the same time, which, sugar (pronounced shu-guh), is what the Old South is all about. Have a wonderful time! k
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Oops – just a twist of fate that my anti-Cafe du Monde comment posted right after your comment, Kat – sorry about that, but next time you got to NOLA, it’s worth the ride to Metairie to have coffee at Morning Call, and the beignets are better there, too, believe it or not. Word of advice to all novice beignet consumers – DON’T WEAR BLACK! (You’ll understand when you get there.)
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Dookey Chase, if it’s open(I think it has been rebuilt since Katrina). I shall be going to NO for JazzFest in May!
FM
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Well! I am leaving for NOLA this Saturday! But, I can tell you that Dookie Chase is open. Just opened a few weeks ago.
Depending on where you are staying, there is a lot to try out. I second the Chowhound.com rec. The others (as well as myself) offer up lots on that board. More than I can say here in the comments.
High End/Special Occasion: Restaurant August (in CBD) or Upperline (Garden District)
Good in the Quarter: Bayona (I really like the Garlic Soup) and G.W. Finn. Honestly, I like the Gumbo Shop’s Gumbo. But that opinion will vary widely.
Po Boys: I like Casamentos and Liuzza’s by the Track (Good Garlic Oyster Po Boy!)
Dives: Well, Coop’s in the Quarter comes to mind.
Lastly: The Mufalatta is really something to try. The “one” is usually the ‘original’ found at Central Grocer. It travels well, so don’t hesitate to pick one up on your way to the airport and eat it on the plane. 🙂
It’s crawfish season. Get some boiled crawfish while you are there. Focus on seafood, it’s what NOLA does best. Oh, and some beans and rice. Always good…
Can you tell where I’ll be and what I’ll be eating?
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COCHON! COCHON! COCHON!
If I had a choice where my last meal would be or who would cook it. Donald Link at Cochon!!!!
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I’ve been going in and out of NOLA over the past two years to report on the Katrina recovery.
Great meals: Cochon, no question, or Herbsaint. Brigtsen’s in Uptown is delicious and very personal but will tax your arteries to the max.
Po’boys: Parkway is the classic, but a cool semi-secret place to go is Crabby Jack’s, the personal side project of the owner of Jacques-Imo. The duck debris po’boy is beyond words.
Fried chicken: Dooky Chase or the Scotch House.
Snowballs: Plum Street. With condensed milk of course.
The Chowhound board is a huge resource.
And FWIW it’s pronounced MED-a-ree.
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Upscale August and Lilette
Hole in the wall Domilisie’s corner of Annuciaiton and Bellecastle. Best po boys ever.
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I just got back from New Orleans (I was there for a conference, but my secret mission was to eat as much as humanly possible) and I present my two suggestions:
1) Cochon. DEFINITELY. I had the fried alligator, the hot sausage with peppers, grits and Cajun cream cheese, and the Louisiana cochon with cabbage, turnips and cracklins. All were delicious and the atmosphere was fun, too. Coming from NYC, I thought the prices were totally reasonable for the quality of the food.
2) For breakfast, go to Mother’s on Poydras Street. Get a biscuit no matter what you do. Also, the grits and debris were incredible.
Enjoy!
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I just wanted to say I love that new profile photo 🙂
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UPDATE: I’m here in NOLA right now, and I just returned from dinner at Cochon. . Definitely go! Very good! I had the Oyster Roast (VERY good!), and the oven roasted redfish. It was very well done, perfectly cooked. I also had the eggplant and shrimp dressing as a side. I like eggplant and shrimp, so I knew I would like it. But the combination of flavors really worked well. I was impressed. Do go. You won’t be sorry.
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Hello, I’m a first-time commentar on your blog, though I’ve been following for a while already. But I loved the food in Louisiana and I spent a few days in New Orleans in autumn 2004, so I decided to put my 2 cents in: definately a Muffaletta. We had ours at Napoleon’s, a bar in the French Quarter. I also really enjoyed the oysters and the seafood gumbo at Acme Oyster Bar.
And if you enjoy cocktails: a Hurricane at Pat O’Brian’s. Very touristy, I know, but great fun.
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you should have brunch at camellia grill – nothing fancy, but delicious food, old-time diner, and a new orleans institution. it’s located at 626 S Carrollton Ave, which means you can take the st. charles streetcar line up there (if it’s running) past all of the beautiful homes on st. charles ave in the garden district. order the orange freeze – you won’t regret it. enjoy!
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Preservation Hall Jazz Band. This is absolutely non-negotiable. This will be the best jazz you will ever hear, in a tiny, dark, downtrodden building just a block-ish off of Bourbon Street. Go a bit before the show begins if you want any chance of a seat. I promise, it’s worth it!
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Holes-in-the-wall are my favorites, too — and they were great in New Orleans. These three spots were ones I liked better than the tonier spots: Camellia Grill for breakfast, Coop’s Place for fried chicken, gumbo, boudin (or as Calvin Trillin says, boo-dang), and Fiorella’s for the best po’boys.
I did love dinner at Antoine’s. It’s a time-warp in the best possible way, truly old New Orleans. You can have old-school dishes like pompano with crabmeat, and watch the neighboring tables where older gents dally with their young, tackily bejeweled, plunging-neckline dates…
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Cochon! The fried ribs and the mud pie/cake. Also, Creole Creamery, which is like Ben & Jerry’s but even more fun. My favorite fancy dinner is at Brigsten’s. It’s a little out of the way, but it’s so worth it, and they treat you like family. Bayona has a very good lunch special. 3 courses for $20.
Don’t forget the Crescent City Farmer’s Market. There’s a good middle eastern booth, cayenne peanut brittle, good hot sauce…
If you can, please visit the lower Ninth Ward. It’s a reality check. When I went a year ago, it looked like the storm had just hit.
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Port of Call! Best burger in America. Definitely a hole-in-the-wall experience, but you may have a wait because many people know about it. Go after a long night for lunch.
And I second the vote for Napoleon House. Not sure about the muffaletta, but they have a great Bloody Mary! Preservation Hall is incredible, too, for a really great jazz experience. Open from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m.
One of my favorite dinners I’ve had anywhere was recently in New Orleans at Stella. Unbelievable! Have fun!
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I agree with Herbsaint! Just was there a few weeks ago and had a stellar meal. Also Jacques Imo’s was fun (loud) and very delicious! Enjoy.
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Mother’s also has great jambalaya and etouffe. I like the gumbo at the Gumbo Shop and raw oysters from Felix’s. Antoine’s is great and they will give you a tour of the upstairs where the ghosts reside. Really wonderful! I agree that picking up a few muffaletta’s from Central Grocery is important for the trip home. You can also stock up on their olive salad. Pralines from Aunt Sally’s are yummy. Brennan’s for brunch is also something that you shouldn’t miss. Enjoy! I live in Memphis and haven’t been back since right before Katrina.
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go to your local bookseller and buy “gumbo tales”, by sarah roahen. read it on the plane. it will get you all set to eat at the hole-in-the wall, sentimental places you only find in new orleans. sarah was a food critic for the local new orleans paper. i don’t know her (she seems very cool!), but she’ll tell you everything you need to know!
http://www.sararoahen.com/Sara_Roahen/Welcome.html
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Definitely try Jacques-Imo’s (Austin Leslie’s fried chicken, greens), also go to Crabby Jacks for lunch (also owned by Jack). Duck Po-Boy. Fantastic fish tacos.
Dick and Jenny’s (uptown, off Tchoupitoulas…I worked there three years, a fun place to eat)
Casamentos (for oysters of course, but really the gumbo with a grilled cheese will set you right, too).
Dunbars is supposed to be open again around the corner now, but check to be sure (soul food)
cocktails and ambiance:
Napoleon house (patio, French Qtr)
the Columns hotel (sitting out front is so nice, St Charles Ave.)
Mimi’s (in the Marigny, tapas too, two floors. Really nice at dusk.)
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P.S.:
For upscale I’d go to Peristyle, Brightsen’s, August, Bayona, or Lilette.
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Today is my first visit to your site. I love it! I also just got back from a trip to New Orleans. My husband and I stayed at the corner of Decatur and St. Louis and found some yummy food near our hotel.
Johnny’s Po-Boys was right behind our hotel and the food was WONDERFUL. Not only were their PoBoys great, but their mufalettas were huge and delicious. Their gumbo was some of the most flavorful we found in the quarter, and we experimented a lot while we were there.
The second place we found the first night we were there – tired after a 12 hour drive and wanting food – we came across Vieux Carre Pizza, which is on St. Louis near Bourbon Street. They have a Bourbon Special that includes spinach and feta with a pesto sauce. The crust was wonderful, too! We did not expect to eat pizza in NO, much less find good pizza, but there it is!
My other all time favorite for all six times I have been to NO, is Court of Two Sisters. I prefer to go on a weekday for lunch and sit on the patio for the best experience. Their shrimp etouffee was lacking on this last trip, but the Turtle Soup and Bread Pudding were to die for, as usual.
I also love walking through Metairie and stepping into stores and cafes as they call to me. To be honest, I have not had bad food or drink there, so just pick something and step in!
Have a great trip!
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Yep get Gumbo Tales, it’s an insider’s scoop on New Orleans’ culture and history as reflected through its most iconic dishes. It’s funny & full of historical details.
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Who loves NOLA? I do (the city, not the restaurant!)
To begin – nearly everywhere in NOLA is a dive, even the fancy restaurants are kinda divy. When I took my husband for the first time, I was like, ok, so, we’re going to eat in a lot of dives but it’ll be the best food you’ve ever had, so deal.
I’m really excited that Jacques-Imo’s made the list – those mojitoes are fabulous, no? Also, Frankie & Johnny’s on Tchoup and Arabella, I think? Great bloody Mary’s, great po’boys. Coops is a great dive. Fiorella’s is a great dive, although I’ve never had a po’boy there I have had the fried chicken. PORT OF CALL is my home away from home. FYI: you can usually get a seat faster, if you don’t have a big crowd, at the bar – and if Rody is working, tell him I said, hi and I’ll be down in a couple of weeks. Little Dizzy’s on Esplanade is supposed to be good – I’ve been, it was okay but not fab. I think it was an off day. Eat loads and loads of crawfish and then eat more – if you can make friends and get them to cook for you, even better (this is not terribly hard, esp. if the prices are good.) Molly’s at the Market has a great bloody Mary, Irene’s is supposed to be great (never been, near Stella). Um…Praline connection used to be better, I’d skip it. Try to limit Brennan restaurants – there’s so much else out there – which means Brennans, Commanders, Palace Cafe, Dickie Brennan, Mr. B’s, Red Fish. I haven’t been to Two Sisters in years, the fountain at Pat O’s is pretty fun. Galatoire’s is supposed to be fantastic. There’s just too much…I’m going to start telling people where not to go because that’s much easier. Popeyes (I know, chain) fried chicken is pretty good and their red beans are damn good. The husband and I are on a quest for the perfect red beans and have not found it – save in our, or friends, kitchen and Popeyes. Who knew?
Too bad you’re not in town for Jazz Fest, that’s when it gets interesting. There’s crawfish bread, a delicacy you CANNOT find any other time of the year. Love it. Not so keen on the Monica though.
I’m hungry now and stopping.
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