P1030449

Did you know this man could cook? I'm sure most of you remember him as the belligerent ghost who tried to kick Patrick Swayze off the train in Ghost, but Schiavelli was also a gourmand and a writer who chronicled his childhood spent hanging around his Sicilian family in Brooklyn. I used to work at the company that publishes his books and one day I ran into him as he walked down the hallway to his editor's office. He was very tall and elegantly dressed, wearing a fedora. His familiar face caught me off-guard and I did a double-take before rounding the corner to the photocopying machine. I smiled to myself as I heard a familiar refrain echoing in my head, "Get off of my train!"

Schiavelli used to prepare regular dinners at the now-shuttered Alto Palato restaurant in West Hollywood. One of his pasta dishes bore a resemblance to the Sicilian classic, Pasta chi Sard (which, in Sicilian dialect, means Pasta with Sardines), but he cleverly renamed his dish Pasta chi Sardi a Mari (Pasta with Sardines Still in the Sea). I have a feeling this is the kind of dish my father would love, if he'd ever get his act together to actually buy fennel seeds or golden raisins. The LA Times adapted Schiavelli's recipe for the newspaper almost four years ago, and I finally got around to trying it last night for dinner.

This is one of those fantastic meals that looks so entirely unassuming, but manages to combine flavors in such a way that the final product is out of this world. And in just 20 minutes! For those of you who claim to hate anchovies, I swear to you (I really do!) that if you try this recipe, you won't even be able to taste them – they are a back note, a barely-there frisson of marine je-ne-sais-quoi, and completely inoffensive. The mellow garlic, herbal parsley, sweet raisins, and aromatic fennel seeds balance out the anchovies perfectly and the proportion of each ingredient in the recipe could teach recipe testers a thing or two about restraint.

You soak a few raisins in hot water, while carefully warming together oil, garlic, minced anchovies and the fennel seeds. You throw the chopped parsley into the skillet, and then bring a pot of water to boil for the pasta. Schiavelli calls for bucatini, but regular spaghetti can be substituted. While the spaghetti boils, you add the drained raisins to the fennel mixture, then add the cooked pasta and a healthy amount of cooking water. Over high heat, the water reduces, and acts as a thickener and a flavor-booster. Each strand of spaghetti is coated with a lightly flavored, green-flecked sauce, and the toasted pine nuts thrown in at the end add crunch.

If you use jarred anchovies (which are more convenient to keep around than tinned ones) and have fennel seeds and golden raisins lying around your pantry, this is the kind of dish that could become your rainy-day, late-night special. The kind of meal you throw together when there's nothing else in the house and it's too late for elaborate preparations of any kind. It's the best kind of fast food, simple and sophisticated.

Pasta Chi Sardi a Mari
Serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup golden raisins
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
4 anchovy filets, minced
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
6 tablespoons minced parsley
1 pound bucatini or spaghetti
Salt
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts

1. Cover the raisins with hot water and let soften 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Warm the olive oil, garlic, anchovies and fennel seeds in a skillet over medium-low heat. After about 5 minutes, the anchovies will begin to melt. Add the parsley and keep the mixture warm, but do not let the garlic scorch.

3. Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling, salted water. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water, and add the noodles to the skillet with the sauce. Drain the raisins and add to the skillet. Increase the heat to high and add the reserved pasta water. Cook, stirring the mixture together, until most of the water has evaporated and the sauce clings to the noodles, about 3 minutes. Stir in the pine nuts. Serve immediately.

Posted in , ,

9 responses to “Vincent Schiavelli’s Pasta chi Sardi a Mari”

  1. Julie Avatar

    Oh, good lord, that sounds wonderful. Not that I have golden raisins lying around in my pantry but clearly I need to remedy that.

    Like

  2. Grant Avatar

    I did not realize that Vincent Schiavelli cooked at Alto Palato (that restaurant was where I first ate pumpkin ravioli years and years ago) nor did I know that he wrote books. Did he do cookbooks? This recipe sounds fantastic. The combination of anchovies and raisins is just so unexpected but sounds amazing.

    Like

  3. Pru Avatar
    Pru

    I can’t wait to try this!

    Like

  4. lindy Avatar

    The recent demise of my fridge resulted in many food casulties, including my lovely jar of anchovies. I must get me another. I love the “secret ingredient” use of the anchovy. It adds an undefinable something to so many things, and is appreciated, unknowingly, by many who “hate” anchovies. This looks like a goodie.

    Like

  5. ann Avatar

    i recently have become completely obsessed with sardines
    does anyone where they were featured in this recipe orginially?
    thanks for this one luisa!

    Like

  6. From Our Kitchen Avatar

    This sounds like a really good combination of flavors. I’m a little scared of the anchovies, but I’ve got to get over that sometime…

    Like

  7. Luisa Avatar

    Julie – yes yes, you must!
    Grant – his books were memoirs with recipes scattered throughout. That raisin-anchovy combination is typically Sicilian – the raisins (I think) being an ancient import from when the Moors invaded the island.
    Pru – I hope you like it! It’s so delicious – even leftover the next day.
    Lindy – I’m sorry to hear about your fridge! the loss of perfectly good foodstuffs as a result of something like that is frustrating to say the least. After the blackout of ’03, we had to throw so much nice stuff away, sigh.
    Ann – if you do a Google search for “Pasta Con Le Sarde” you will find a glut of recipes for a similar dish to this using fresh sardines. In fact, the first result is one by Mario Batali (on Food Network’s site) that I’m sure will be delicious.
    From Our Kitchen – I really do promise you that you will like this dish even if you are freaked out by anchovies when they’re lying in front of you on the cutting board in their limp and hairy state. Chopped up and melted into a pool of olive oil and other delicious things, the anchovies become a supporting note. Let me know what you think of the dish when you make it!

    Like

  8. Ange Avatar

    Mmmm, looks & sounds amazing, glad I’m heading home to eat my dinner soon though nothing so delicious for me, simple pumpkin soup on the menu tonight!

    Like

  9. Mark Avatar

    this was absolutely fantastic. so simple, easy, and classy dish. goes down well with a nice drop of white too!
    thanks for this receipe 🙂

    Like

Leave a reply to Grant Cancel reply