Schmalz
I love going to grocery stores. And I'm willing to bet money a lot of you do, too. No?  There's something so calming about grocery shopping. All those nice parallel lines, the reliable stacks of products, the hum of the refrigerated section, the loamy scent in the produce aisle. I heft sacks of rice in my hand, feel the bumpy rinds of cool lemons, run my index finger along smooth jars of honey. Whenever I'm feeling out of sorts, a stroll through the grocery store sets me right again.

After a long time out of German grocery stores, I am having such a good time rediscovering what's in them. There are enormous amount of dairy products, lots of whole-grain flours, very cheap, delicious honey and the most beautiful Savoy cabbages you ever did see. There are also more "ethnic" products than there used to be, like Chinese sauces and Yugoslavian pepper pastes; and the produce sections, while piddling in size compared to the grotesquerie of a Whole Foods, now sport lemon grass and cilantro along with the standard offerings of local potatoes, leeks and turnips.

I don't know about you, but when I travel I love spending an afternoon in a grocery store, looking at local cheese that will never leave the zip code, strange jams, interesting vegetables and more. You can learn a lot about a place from its grocery stores;
can see the importance of cured meats, say, in one culture, or the lack
of green vegetables in another. I buy gifts for people back home there, figuring a rosehip jam or an exotic nut oil is so much better than a standard post card. It's something tangible you can eat and feel transported by, something delicious you can't get back home, something special, best of all.

I thought you might like to see some of my favorite things from my local store here. Next time you're in town, stock up.

Mus

Pflaumenmus is German plum butter and it is glorious. Dark and sticky and lightly spiced with cinnamon, German bakeries pipe this stuff into doughnuts and citizens put it on toast for breakfast. I've heard it on good authority that it tastes especially delicious spread over fresh cheese on bread. For some reason, Pflaumenmus is almost always sold in tins, which makes for lovely presents.

Strudel

Strudel. Oh, strudel. Those Austro-Hungarians, man, they had good ideas. Light, delicate dough, so thin you can read newspaper through it, stuffed with spiced apples and brushed with butter, browned in the oven, served with cream… Is your stomach growling yet? I am nowhere near knowing how to make my own strudel dough, so I loved finding this premade dough in the refrigerated section. Plus, isn't the type on the package worth buying it alone? This stuff is from Bavaria, which will probably make me the laughingstock of any Austrians reading the blog, but I've also seen Austrian strudel dough at a fancy department store here and I'm buying that next. Last night, I filled and baked a sheet of this dough with mashed potatoes seasoned with caraway, then mixed with sauteed leeks, onions and ham, and almost two cups of quark. Sliced and served with a salad, oh ho, it was good.

Tee

Germans love tea. They love tea. Especially herbal tea. In my grocery store, there are herbal teas available for almost every kind of ailment or situation known to man. From standard offerings like fennel and rosehip to more complicated stuff like "Men's Tea" or "Tea for the Common Cold" or even a tea called "Hot Love" (ahem), you could spend hours in the tea aisle and be convinced to stop believing in modern medicine. My favorite herbal tea at the moment is this stuff called "Arabian Spice Tea". It's flavored with cardamom and plums, among other things, and tastes especially wonderful with a spoonful of honey melted into it. No idea if it does anything good for your health, but it warms my soul and that seems plenty.

Zwieback

We all know Zwieback, right? Just little squares of crispy bread, best eaten when afflicted with a stomach flu. Here in Germany, though, the birthplace of the Zwieback, some evil genius has gone and done it: created what is possibly the best teatime snack ever made: the chocolate-covered Zwieback. Covered in bittersweet chocolate, Schoko-Zwieback is addictive. It's crunchy as all get out, barely sweet and so satisfying. I am a little bit obsessed. You will be, too.

öl

Another import from Austria is Styrian pumpkinseed oil. Produced exclusively in Styria, a region of Austria, pumpkinseed oil looks like dark green ink and tastes like a pumpkinseed on steroids. I like drizzling it on pureed pumpkin soup or dressing greens for salad with it (best with a delicate white wine vinegar). It's powerful stuff and comes in all kinds of beautiful little jugs and bottles. Way, way better than a miniature replica of the Brandenburg Gate.

Bauer

And finally, the best ready-made dessert you'll ever buy. Bauer, a privately-owned dairy, makes this very simple, very plain chocolate pudding. Made only with milk and no cream and with 72% cacao, it's improbably light and yet packs a serious chocolate punch. It's almost black and silky on the spoon. Best of all: the ingredient label. No preservatives, no strange color numbers. Just milk, sugar, cacao, and starch. Imagine eating a mashed pototo strudel for dinner and then still finding room for dessert? This is the only thing that will fit.

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95 responses to “Dispatches From a German Grocery Store”

  1. Jennifer Avatar

    What tasty little treasures. I remember strolling through the supermarket in Venice. My husband thought I was crazy, but it was so fun.

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  2. braise & butter Avatar

    i remember the summer after high school, which i spent in paris, i spent an inordinate amount of time wandering the supermarkets. i was especially fond of the dairy aisle-the yogurts fascinated me. every time i go to the grocery store now, it is so crowded and crazed that it’s no longer the joy it once was. i need to go right at the crack of dawn for any sort of restorative effect! really enjoyed seeing all of the goodies you love-i’m especially intrigued by the pumpkinseed oil!

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  3. Christine Avatar

    I love foreign grocery stores too. The last time I was in Spain I stocked up on enough tuna packed in olive oil (so cheap there!) that it almost made it a year.
    Somehow this post made me want to visit Germany more than I’ve ever wanted to visit in my life. I think it was the plum jam/butter that convinced me.

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  4. Adrienne Avatar

    Supermarkets are one of my favorite places to go, too! A few years ago in New Zealand I remember marveling at the way they sell kiwi fruits- by the half dozen in a little mesh basket with a plastic spoon that has serrations on one side so you can open and eat the fruit with the same utensil. Delightful 🙂

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  5. christine Avatar

    I’m German but haven’t lived there for over three years now and had completely forgotten how much I love Pflaumenmus until I saw your post, I haven’t had it in ages. Must definitley order some from the next german visitors! I like the Schokozwieback a lot too, but have you tried the coconut one? I think I like it even better.
    I look forward to many more german food posts!
    best from Brooklyn,
    Christine

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  6. Sasa Avatar

    Another supermarket lover here! I just bought some cicerchia in Italy for the same reasons…Funnily I have exactly the same brand of Steirisches Kuerbiskernoel (I have a Japanese keyboard that can’t do umlauts!)in my pantry and plan on making a Styrian specialty called something like Sauer Rindfleisch – simmered like Tafelspitz and thinly sliced with the oil and vinegar…But don’t worry, I’m not Austrian so I won’t be laughing about your Bavarian streudelteig snigger
    Is that plum jam stuff the same as Powidl I wonder? One of the hardest things about cooking here is the fact that German-German and Austrian-German have such different names for the same thing and there really aren’t any comprehensive Austrian-English food dictionaries I have managed to find…
    Sorry for the essay, hehe.

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  7. Jessika Avatar

    Sounds like you are settling back in but with the eye of a new comer :). I have family in Nürnberg and love wandering through grocery stores, where my family lives there are tons of farm and artisinal stores. A visit in any country is not complete without a visit in a grocery store.

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  8. hannah Avatar

    This is a wonderful post, grocery stores say so much about a place and reading about the findings you have made in your new home makes my heart ache a bit for every place I’ve been and loved.
    Also: that strudel sounds killer–think it could be made as a tart using puff pastry or phyllo dough?

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  9. alana Avatar

    Oh, you’ve gone straight to my heart here. When I travel, I hurry my way through churches and museums, hoping to get a chance to go to the place that fascinates me the most- the supermarket. Thanks for taking me through yours- I feel like I’ve had a little German vacation.

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  10. Alexa Avatar
    Alexa

    You are making me so nostalgic for Germany…I lived in Munich and spent all my leisure hours in markets and groceries trying all the dairy products and cool jammy concoctions I could get my hands on. Thank GOD they started making quark in Canada, because thinking I wouldn’t eat it again threw me into a depression! I am crazy for all things Holunder…the syrup in the grocery stores, Holunder jam, Holunder pastillen. I am dreaming of the Suppenküche in the Viktualienmarkt in Munich now. There goes the morning. Thank you for this amazing post.

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  11. the lacquer spoon Avatar

    Thank you! They’re new findings to me. I used to be in a German comany, but didn’t have opportunities to know their products but Haribo and Lebkuchen 😉

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  12. Linda Avatar
    Linda

    you’re speaking my language! Unfortunately my traveling companions don’t always see the charm of going to a grocery store while on vacation..

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  13. noëlle {simmer down!} Avatar

    I’m also a big fan of the leisurely grocery store stroll, especially in a new or unfamiliar place. I live in the Detroit area and am always seeking out new ethnic markets for yet-undiscovered treasures. Luckily there are plenty around here to keep me busy.
    I love nut oils, that pumpkin seed oil sounds divine…

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  14. allison Avatar
    allison

    The grotesquerie of Whole Foods? I’m sorry but I feel as if I ought to say something on their behalf. Yes, it’s large. Yes, they have an abundance of produce. But since when is that a bad thing!? Especially when almost everything is organic or the best possible quality. Shopping in smaller stores with local ingredients is of course ideal – but when you’re looking for hard-to-find ingredients, Whole Foods is absolutely the place to go! And honestly, you could probably find a couple of the items you list above there as well…

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  15. michela Avatar

    i totally agree with walking through the market and visiting those wherever you travel. thanks for the interesting post!

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  16. jenni Avatar
    jenni

    As a Scandinavian in the US, I consider myself extraodrinarily lucky that some of my favorite food items can be had at IKEA. You can always spot the Scandinavian in IKEA: he will be laden with industrial-size buckets of lingon-berry jam, huge wheels of rye crisp-bread, and wedge upon wedge of cheese.

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  17. Luisa Avatar

    Christine – next up, coconut! 😉
    Sasa – yes, powidl is plum jam. The Austrian names for things really crack me up, my current fave: Eiskasten!
    Hannah – no, the dough is a very thin sheet, that’s all. It doesn’t rise or flake, so it’d be pretty difficult as a tart bottom.
    Alexa – you’re welcome! I love all things Holunder, too. Oh, except the jelly. I don’t know why, but it skeevs me out.
    Allison – I think Whole Foods is a marvel, I do. The quality and variety of what’s for sale is mind-blowing, and I appreciate that especially now that I’m in a place that has no store like it. No quibbling with you there! But what I was referring to was the quantity of the produce that they have on display. It is, to me, grotesque. There is no way they actually sell all of it and what that means is that a lot – too much – gets wasted.

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  18. Reuben Avatar

    @Sasa – Yep, Powidln, Zwetschgen and Plaumen are all plums, sorted by popularity of the name from south to north.
    Of course, they will occasionally mean different sorts of plums, but that distinction varies between the individual regions of Germany and can be further complicated by adding heaps of local names of different kinds of plums (Eierpflaumen, Mirabellen,…)
    Long histories make complicated explanations.

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  19. jill Avatar
    jill

    that pumpkinseed oil is amazing over vanilla ice cream.
    I also just moved from the states to canada, and saw plum butter in one of the fancy stores here, definitely surprised to see it.

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  20. Andrea Avatar

    Regarding the Whole Foods discussion, and living in a place without one, I agree with Allison that it’s a little like a miracle sometimes.
    However, one of my favorite grocery store experiences was on the Isle of Syke in Scotland in darkest January. The dearth of produce there really emphasized for me what it means to live in a cold and dark place, not connected to big cities with an interstate. This might be the Puritan in me, but it felt more authentic and so evocative of exactly that place.
    And that wretched looking produce was something I appreciated a thousand times more than the Whole Foods bounty. (However much I’d like a Whole Foods nearby!)

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  21. Nancy Avatar

    Oh my!! How I miss shopping the little groceries in Germany! Brings back very fond memories…and when you’re done there you go to the meat market and the bakery!! Truly a sensory overload!
    Love your post!

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  22. KT Avatar

    I went to Germany when I was 17 and I LOVED the grocery stores. I was astonished at the two-story one, with several aisles just for pickles. I brought packaged treats home for my family – hero jam, nutella, and those little dumpling-like noodles.
    Plum butter sounds like heaven. Will have to track some down.

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  23. Laziza Avatar
    Laziza

    I loved this post. Yup, I definitely enjoy grocery stores. Grocery shopping and cooking are my household chore – I have yet to reveal to my husband, who does all the vacuuming and yard work and etc. that I don’t actually consider them “chores” at all.

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  24. Sasa Avatar

    Thanks for answering Luisa, another one for you: Tomaten are Paradisen! Frankly I think the Austrian word there is more apt, especially in mid-summer. ;P
    @Reuben…Awesome, more vocab to stuff into my head! As if the grammar weren’t hard enough – apparently Oscar Wilde said there isn’t enough time in an entire life to learn German grammar, or something to that effect, hehe. I’m feeling him right now.
    end thread hijack

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  25. Molly Avatar
    Molly

    YAY!!! I love German grocery stores. As an ex-pat living in way west Germany I really enjoyed your post on items in German grocery stores. I will look for some of these items here.

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  26. Natalie Avatar

    This is making me homesick and hungry!

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  27. Ritsuka Avatar

    That sounds fantastic! I loved walking through grocery stores in Japan, even the little 100¥ ones that were full of esoteric snack foods. Your purchases sound amazing.

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  28. Patrice Avatar

    Thanks for this lovely post, Luisa. So enjoyed the virtual trip through your local market and wonderful products available to you there. Gotta run, though. On my way to the store! 🙂

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  29. moonvirgo Avatar
    moonvirgo

    Great post and wonderful pics. Thank you for sharing these delightful treasures.

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  30. The Rowdy Chowgirl Avatar

    Schweine-Schmalz! Love it! Grocery stores are a lot of fun while traveling, and I agree that they are a wonderful place to find souvenirs. Great post!

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  31. dan Avatar

    we use to buy the same pumpkin seed oil every time we go skiing in austria. but be careful, it goes rancid in a few weeks if you don’t keep it in the fridge, it happened to us once. I have to look for that plum butter next time…

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  32. CJ Avatar
    CJ

    Oh, my god–I almost had a canary reading this post! I get palpatations walking to my local supermarket to do my regular shop. You can not imagine the level of tachycardia I have just reached reading the above. I wish I was Samantha (or even Sabrina, I want it so badly) and could twitch my nose and be in Berlin so I could gorge on PLUM JAM,CHOCOLATE ZWIEBACK,AND BEER.

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  33. Tracy (Amuse-bouche for Two) Avatar

    I do love packaging (I’m a graphic designer by trade). It’s so much more interesting out of the states. So, yes…I could, and often do, get lost in a grocery store perusing the parallels and perimeters. The typography on the strudel packing is euro-licious!

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  34. Anna Avatar
    Anna

    Why yes, I do love grocery stores! You have completely convinced me that if I ever make it to Germany, I should get my hands on a tin of Pflaumenmus as soon as possible.

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  35. Jens Avatar
    Jens

    Hi!
    I’m reading your blog form Germany! Nice selection you have done. You have to try Haribo and off curse I mised Sauerkraut ;-
    Germany is good in Bread and sausages (I guess there are up to 200 diffrent kinds of each)
    Cheese from some region are also very good. But I guess meet is better in US.
    Greetings from germany

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  36. Vanessa Avatar

    Yay, a new post from you! Going grocery shopping is actually one of my favourite things to unwind, just drifting round the aisles coming across the most wonderful, unexpected goodies. I find it reassuring to know that you also love visiting grocery stores in other countries; last autumn, I became mesmerised in Italy at the sight of all these things you can’t get at home, though normally I try to do this part alone because my trvalling companions aren’t always as crazy about spending hours studying yoghurts and cheeses. Glad I’m not the only one who does this. Pflaumenmus has long been a favourite of mine, especially with Grießbrei to get me through the winter but Schoko Zwieback and Bauer puddings, what have I been missing?! At least, that’s easy to correct 🙂

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  37. Lisa Avatar
    Lisa

    What a fun post!! I too love checking out new grocery stores, and I’d loev to get my hands on nearly all the stuff you mention here!
    Re Whole Foods, I realize they’ve made organic produce more available in some areas, but (I used to live in Oregon) their business record in areas that already have o/g markets is not impressive: they buy out local o/g groceries, the o/g selection gets smaller, and prepared foods and non-o/g produce expands. They’re called Whole Paycheck for a reason but I agree they have some good hard-to-find stuff and shop there sometimes.

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  38. Ernie Avatar
    Ernie

    Einspruch!
    I do actually love grocery shopping in foreign countries (or even in another “Bundesland”), because it is kind of interesting and I understand your nostalgia, but I literally HATE most ordinary German supermarkets. I go with Nigel Slater and Bill Bufford and say: Gocery stores are evil, they killed our food.
    I like Pflaumenmus aswell and there are some ready-made-doughs without strange things added, but the other stuff? Even the Zwieback has so many ingredients I cannot even count them with my fingers.
    Most of the teas you can get in the supermarkets are packed with flavourings that are most likely from BASF (at least local, hehe), but much more important: They lack quality. Whats sold in the little teabags is the rubbish that can be found on the floor when the good tea, i.e. the whole leaves with aroma and everything, has been packed.
    Mot of the supermarkets I know do also sell awfully crappy meat, vegetables and fruit. The stuff is cheap, yes, but you get what you pay for: Watery meat thats just like the milk stuffed with antibiotics, Zwieback with at least three ingredients I cannot pronounce and
    What you need to do in Germany is speciality-shopping: Tea at the tea shop, vegetables, meat etc at the farmer’s market an so on. Some really good products can be found at the organic stores and “Reformhäuser”, too.
    This way you can get exceptional quality.

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  39. gexx Avatar
    gexx

    Oh wow! I remember back in the 1980s when my mother was pregnant with my little brother an we lived in West Germany, her cravings were for the powdered jelly doughnuts filled with the plum butter. She would send me to the bakery each day to get a few.

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  40. Sirena Avatar

    Great post, Luisa! I love the kind of “parallel world” feeling of going foraging through local or new supermarkets wherever you happen to be. I have the last few sad bags of a special Cacao-Coconut tea I bought in Argentina, and rely on my mother in law for amazing Jordanian mahmool and zaatar. You made me nostalgic for some of the oddities on the shelves in my beloved little hometown of Zihuatanejo Ixtapa, Mexico!

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  41. Dawn (KitchenTravels) Avatar

    We are kindred spirits. I love shopping in grocery stores when I travel, and even at home. My husband is baffled why it always takes twice as long to do our food shopping when I go. It’s because I like to “look!” 😉

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  42. Madame Fromage Avatar

    I just learned that I like reading about grocery stores almost as much as I enjoy trolling through them for ideas when I have free time. It’s amazing that no one has done a luxe grocery blog. I spent time in Germany as an exchange student, and I remember many breakfasts of toast, quark, and pflaumen mus. Thanks the memory.

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  43. Julia of Randomly Yours, Julia Avatar

    What a fun post! And your photos complement it so beautifully (I think my favourite is the Pflaumenmus.)
    I miss quark! I lived near Geilenkirchen for a few years. Yesterday I bought nutella because I was still thinking of you and your morning addiction.
    I also love browsing grocery stores, and let me tell you, when my parents came to visit down under, they spent AGES looking at everything available here, so maybe I should do a grocery tour of my own.

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  44. Julia Avatar
    Julia

    Going to foreign grocery stores is my favorite thing ever! Just ask my dad who stood in Gristedes for half an hour shaking his head in disbelief while I was reaquainting myself with American food. Re: Pflaumenmus. Try a cube of Gouda (Pikantje van Antje is my personal favorite, even better than organic) dipped in Pflaumenmus on Finn Crisp Knäckebrot. Sounds disgusting, but it’s heaven. Works with Nutella, too.

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  45. ann Avatar

    Ajvar!! That’s what the Yugoslavian pepper relish is, and it’s delicious. It was my favorite thing we discovered on our trip to Croatia, and so delicious I actually made some with the few eggplants and peppers I managed to get out of the garden last summer. It’s wonderful with grilled meats, and really nice with vegetables or on bread for breakfast as well. I ❤ ajvar! I also ❤ grocery stores. They’re the very best part of traveling. Jealous of the pumpkin seed oil. I would love to get my hands on some of that!

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  46. Moni Avatar

    OMG, Zwieback!! How I miss that here. I especially loved the Coconut crusted one. mmmmm.

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  47. Claire Avatar
    Claire

    I was in a supermarket back home (UK) a couple of years ago, and the checkout lady smiled and asked if I was having a good day. My response – “I’m having the best day, it’s so exciting being in Sainsbury’s” took her slightly aback.. but it WAS exciting! I should get out more!

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  48. Molly Avatar

    Shoko-Zweiback? Shoko-Zweiback!! Where was this when I was last in Berlin? Brilliant. And yes, next to stationery stores, grocery stores rock. Enjoy.

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  49. Robin Avatar

    I just finished eating a delicious dinner, but now all I can think of is mashed potato strudel! This will haunt my dreams (along with, of course, schweine schmalz).

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  50. Marcia Avatar
    Marcia

    A long time ago I stopped climbing to the top of every church tower with my husband..no thanks, see you later, I am off to the grocery store..going to London in a few weeks where I will stock up on an the amazing variety of chutneys and pickles,double cream, tea, and several different kinds of chocolate peppermints. The new airline regulations mean that everything has to get checked through cushioned with underwear and bubblewrap..Wish I could find chutney in a tin like your Pflaumenmus!

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